Hey all. New to the forum here. I have searched a bit but haven't found a specific answer regarding replacing the spring pack in my compensator as opposed to replacing the entire unit.
I have an '07 Electra Glide Ultra with right at 40k on her and though I have not taking it apart yet, by the noise / knock, I am certain it needs some degree of work regarding the compensator.
So, is it possible or recommended to replace the spring pack instead of the whole unit?
What actually wears out on these things?
If I need to replace it, I see many opinions as to which one to replace it with. I see there is the SE version along with several after market brands, including a couple that are solid and completely do away with any 'compensating' at all which does not sound like a good idea.
The old gal is bone stock and I don't ride it aggressively at all so should I get a stock replacement?

Thanks!
Dave
WA Dog

 

I believe your 2007 compensator may be a different part number than my old 2012 one but should be similar. The problem with these years compensaters is the lack of oiling and the springs are not the parts that show the damage like the compensating sprocket, sliding cam, and sprocket retainer.

There seems to be 2 good choices to upgrade the bad compensators: the new SE one with the oiling tray, and the Baker one. I am running the Baker one but have not gone back yet to check it out and don't have a lot of miles on it yet, so time will tell....

Oh yeah, welcome to the HD Forum!

 

The '07's were notorious for noisy transmissions, particularly 1st and 5th. The transmissions were later redesigned which eliminated the problem. The SE compensator will eliminate some of the noise problem as will a 'cush drive' kit for a few less $$. Baker was all over this back in the day and they offered excellent solutions in the form of kits.

 

Thanks for the info on the compensators. I have read quite a bit about the oil/lube issues and it seems to be a design issue. I don't have any complaints about trans noises, though I can hear them. It does have a pretty loud primary chain noise, however. I have read that is generally attributable to the chain having too much tension, so that is another question I have.
What is the correct tension for the primary chain?
I have not got into it yet so I have no idea what type of tensioner it has. I see there are two basic types: One has a simple 'set and forget' bracket. I have a '74 Sportster with one like that. Haven't touched it in years!
The other is a mouse trap looking thing that applies spring tension with a ratchet type of mechanism that automatically locks in the spring loaded tension.
So if mine has the spring loaded one, should I be looking to change it out with a different/better one?
When I get done with all of this, I will have more questions about the cam chain tensioners, but one side of the bike at a time.
She's got enough miles on her that it's time to take a look at these things rather than rebuild a motor due to negligence because I'm pretty fond of it!
Another bike I have is also an '07. It is a Victory Vegas Jackpot Ness Signature edition and it's an OK bike. It's really fast and so forth, but frankly I have had more than enough problems with it that I have never had with either of my HD's!
I like the Victory (when I don't have to fix it), but I love my my Electra Glide!

 

In your bike, the rotor assembly, (which includes the springs), comes in one unit, (approx $200)... You will have to way up this cost, verses the SE comp, plus the new updated rotor, (approx $450) .. A bit of a patch up job, V the newest comp version ...

 

Spring replacement on the old style unit made sense (I replaced mine at 120,000 miles as a maintenance move,) but that won't fix an inherent design problem. On an '07 and later I'd go with the Baker compensator. ($450)

 

Sounds like you do not have the Service Manual for your bike yet. It will show you what type of primary chain tensioner you have and how to adjust the tension if it is not the auto tensioner type. The Baker Attitude Adjuster is a good replacement for the HD auto adjuster and it recommends 5/8" to 7/8" free play with a "cold" chain.

 

The auto tensioner is stock

 

"Spring replacement on the old style unit made sense (I replaced mine at 120,000 miles as a maintenance move,) but that won't fix an inherent design problem. On an '07 and later I'd go with the Baker compensator. ($450)"

Thanks for the reply! So you're saying the SE comp despite the cost, is a much better way to go, it sounds like. Is this the unit that also incorporates the 'oiling try' that I see gets glued into the primary cover?
Might be a fool question, but could that device be used with a stock comp?

" Sounds like you do not have the Service Manual for your bike yet. It will show you what type of primary chain tensioner you have and how to adjust the tension if it is not the auto tensioner type. The Baker Attitude Adjuster is a good replacement for the HD auto adjuster and it recommends 5/8" to 7/8" free play with a "cold" chain. "

Would you recommend replacing the auto tension stock unit with the adjustable one you mention? I am a firm believer in doing it once the right way!
Thanks!

 

The 07 primary chain adjuster is a ratcheting type.......goes up but wont go down....so when the tensioner has to fluctuate it can't........I put the HAYDEN chain tensioner in and find it easier to get neutral now with less noise. When I opened it up and inspected the comp it's didn't seem to have any major wear issues.....so I won't be changing that any time soon...but I didn't like the design of the stock adjuster.