I am not talking about the Hog Leverage / Oberon Adjustable Levers.
The above only effects when the clutch engages. I do not have a when issue.

Nor is the issue on how many pounds of pull is required to pull the clutch lever back.

HELP - HELP - HELP

Question: On the NEW touring bikes like the 2017 Ultra LTD (that I have), when you are letting the clutch lever out (starting to engage the clutch) RIGHT THERE it seems like you are TOTALLY ENGAGED immediately. Like you are 100% engaged or 100% not engaged. <-- THIS is not good when you want to be partway engaged ONLY. "Feathering" the clutch.

After 800 miles, it is still the same. You are 100% engaged or 100% not engaged. Yes, there is a tiny spot (sweet spot) where you are partway engaged but it is way too small. Is there an adjustment to the clutch that can open up this sweet spot?

ALL of my non-hydraulic bikes did not have this issue. Only now with the hydraulic clutch. Several of my friends (very experienced riders) have found the exact same thing.

Thank you in advance,

BuzzCap7

 

Take it back into the dealer and have them look at it.. Mine goes back in tomorrow for 1000 mile service, stage 2 and clutch check..

 

That is a good idea my friend. I will be bringing it in hopefully this week for my 1000 mile service as well.

As I understand it so far, it is working the way it is designed to work. But I will ask anyways.

Thank you,

BuzzCap7

 

That's normal for a hydraulic clutch.

 

Have you looked at the design of the new clutch?

 

Hi Mark,

What is normal? That you can't really feather it? You go from not engaged to totally engaged in the smallest (tiny) release of the clutch?

BuzzCap7

 

It's hydraulic, it's fluid. It's either being forced or it's not, no in between. A cable is more forgiving because you have total control of how much pressure you are applying via the lever. Controlling fluid is more difficult. I don't know if you have ever used a Hi-Lo of fork truck but raising the forks on a fork truck it is slow a deliberate, when you release the pressure and drop the forks down it's instant.

Hope this helps.

 

A good hydraulic system typically exhibits much less friction and it narrows the friction zone by not being able to dampen the clutch movement. I put 150 miles on a 2017 street glide that has about 2000 mile on it, today. The friction zone was fine, no issues. It's narrow but I like it that way..

My 2017 Road King just went in for the 1000 mile service. The bike has a condition where the clutch will grab while in the friction zone if the throttle is blipped a bit.. I suspect that it is the ramp assist inside the clutch that causing the issue. I mentioned it to the service writer at the service to see what they say. It might need few more miles to smooth out.. I was also thinking it might need a couple burnouts to loosen things up.

 

BTW.. Clutch on the 2017 SG works perfectly as far as I can tell over another 250 miles.. It's might be a little far out for some but I like it as you can 2 finger the clutch and use the other 2 for the handlebar. It does seem a little harder to find neutral tho. Well see what they say about my RK.

 

I had about 30 bikes, some of them with cable, some with hydraulic clutch, I don't remember difference.