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Which non-Harley oil for transmission and primary?

  #21  
Old 02-20-2017, 12:26 PM
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Have to agree with 'bagga'. There are many who believe that what you use in the primary doesn't really matter... as long as it is clean and fresh. It's not like the crankcase or gear box where lubrication more critical. It's just splashing around in the primary to keep the chain lubricated and clutch cool. That's why I like Rotella T... my primary needs 38 oz (1 qt + 6 oz) for a simple drain. Rather than buy two quarts of a top shelf brand, I but Rotella in gallon jugs at Walmart for $13. Enough for three primary changes. It's a quality lubricant, wet clutch certified and a great value!
 
  #22  
Old 02-20-2017, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by bagga
i've used, the harley primary oil, 10w30 motor oil, 10w40 motor oil, 20w50 generic "racing oil", 20w50 harley dino motor oil and atf type f. 100k on the original clutch and i couldn't tell the difference in any of the oils i've used.
Agreed, but you sure can tell the difference if you "overfill" with any of those oils. Overfill is the #1 reason for shifting (finding neutral) problems.
 
  #23  
Old 02-22-2017, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MysticTraveler
Have to agree with 'bagga'. There are many who believe that what you use in the primary doesn't really matter... as long as it is clean and fresh. It's not like the crankcase or gear box where lubrication more critical. It's just splashing around in the primary to keep the chain lubricated and clutch cool. That's why I like Rotella T... my primary needs 38 oz (1 qt + 6 oz) for a simple drain. Rather than buy two quarts of a top shelf brand, I but Rotella in gallon jugs at Walmart for $13. Enough for three primary changes. It's a quality lubricant, wet clutch certified and a great value!
Rotella is or was originally formulated for diesel engine, correct? My dad owned trucks and I remember when he switched from RPM to Rotella to
service the cummins engines - my dad told anyone that would listen switching to Rotella cut oil consumption. He swore by the stuff and bought it in 55 gallon drums.
 
  #24  
Old 02-22-2017, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by perki48
Agreed, but you sure can tell the difference if you "overfill" with any of those oils. Overfill is the #1 reason for shifting (finding neutral) problems.
There may not be a penny's difference in the way the bike feels about the oil - but I swear my bike runs hotter on dino than Syn3, and it runs hotter on Syn3 than it does on Redline. Wouldn't be the first time my imagination lied to me or perhaps I just fell for the marketing.
 

Last edited by planoattorney; 02-22-2017 at 09:02 PM. Reason: typo
  #25  
Old 02-23-2017, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by planoattorney
There may not be a penny's difference in the way the bike feels about the oil - but I swear my bike runs hotter on dino than Syn3, and it runs hotter on Syn3 than it does on Redline. Wouldn't be the first time my imagination lied to me or perhaps I just fell for the marketing.
Excuse me, but this "thread" is about primary/transmission, not engine. And I really don't believe that your choice of primary oil effects the temp of your engine.
 
  #26  
Old 03-03-2017, 09:44 PM
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I use Formula+ in the primary. Gonna start using Spectro in the gear box next change.
 
  #27  
Old 03-05-2017, 08:04 AM
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What about Lucas Heavy Duty Primary Chaincase Oil ?
 
  #28  
Old 03-11-2017, 07:11 PM
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Been using the M1 Trans. oil and M1 20W50 in the primary, in all three bikes, no issues.
 
  #29  
Old 03-12-2017, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by perki48
Agreed, but you sure can tell the difference if you "overfill" with any of those oils. Overfill is the #1 reason for shifting (finding neutral) problems.
I probably have about 1/4-1/2" higher level. I used Valvoline MAXlife ATF. If neutral is a problem, I'll adjust level. Thanks for mentioning neutral.
 
  #30  
Old 04-09-2017, 06:04 PM
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I just added some Belray to my transmission and refilled my primary with Rotella.
 

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