Starter drive only works half the time
#1
Starter drive only works half the time
Hi all,
I'm having a problem with my 1983 FLH ever since I put in the new clutch basket. After some great advise from you guys, I finally got the right parts and it went in (the second time) as easy as I could ask for. While I had everything apart I went ahead and replaced the starter solenoid and plunger, hardware, etc. Also replaced the oil seal on the starter shaft. The starter gear looked alright to me aside from so I left it as it was and reinstalled everything. However, when I finally got everything back together and tried to start it all I got was a click from the solenoid.
I took the derby cover off and tried again while watching. The starter gear was just hitting the ring gear without engaging the teeth. I found that if I moved the starter gear so that the teeth matched up with the openings in the clutch ring gear and tried to start it would usually catch and start right up. Oddly enough, sometimes it would work on it's own. I can't figure out what's going on.
Something I should note is that when I put in the new solenoid the starter gear never seemed to retract all the way towards the primary case. I could push back the plunger the gear would extend like it should but then when I released the plunger it would only retract maybe a little more than half way. I did test it with the battery hooked up before I installed the clutch and it seemed to work fine, out and back with no hang-ups noticeable.
I took the whole starter drive apart again today because so many forums here seemed to say that the "bendix" might be bad. Some said it should only turn one way but I can move it left (with resistance) and right (pretty much no resistance). Still, with everything taken apart nothing looks off to me. The only thing I saw was that there were some scratches on the shaft just behind the starter gear/shift collar. And there was a small area of wear at the primary case opening.
What am I missing? Any thing else I should try? I could order most of the parts online but it doesn't seem to me like there's anything wrong with these.
The only electrical testing I did was to make sure the solenoid was getting 12V. With the start button pushed it showed 10-11.
Thanks for your help
I'm having a problem with my 1983 FLH ever since I put in the new clutch basket. After some great advise from you guys, I finally got the right parts and it went in (the second time) as easy as I could ask for. While I had everything apart I went ahead and replaced the starter solenoid and plunger, hardware, etc. Also replaced the oil seal on the starter shaft. The starter gear looked alright to me aside from so I left it as it was and reinstalled everything. However, when I finally got everything back together and tried to start it all I got was a click from the solenoid.
I took the derby cover off and tried again while watching. The starter gear was just hitting the ring gear without engaging the teeth. I found that if I moved the starter gear so that the teeth matched up with the openings in the clutch ring gear and tried to start it would usually catch and start right up. Oddly enough, sometimes it would work on it's own. I can't figure out what's going on.
Something I should note is that when I put in the new solenoid the starter gear never seemed to retract all the way towards the primary case. I could push back the plunger the gear would extend like it should but then when I released the plunger it would only retract maybe a little more than half way. I did test it with the battery hooked up before I installed the clutch and it seemed to work fine, out and back with no hang-ups noticeable.
I took the whole starter drive apart again today because so many forums here seemed to say that the "bendix" might be bad. Some said it should only turn one way but I can move it left (with resistance) and right (pretty much no resistance). Still, with everything taken apart nothing looks off to me. The only thing I saw was that there were some scratches on the shaft just behind the starter gear/shift collar. And there was a small area of wear at the primary case opening.
What am I missing? Any thing else I should try? I could order most of the parts online but it doesn't seem to me like there's anything wrong with these.
The only electrical testing I did was to make sure the solenoid was getting 12V. With the start button pushed it showed 10-11.
Thanks for your help
#2
#3
Ok, I didn't check amperage. What should I be looking for? It's on a battery tender all the time but I assume there's more to it than that.
The connections all seem good. I replaced the battery to solenoid to starter cables when I got the new solenoid. The rest seemed ok, considering they're probably almost as old as I am.
Thanks for your help
The connections all seem good. I replaced the battery to solenoid to starter cables when I got the new solenoid. The rest seemed ok, considering they're probably almost as old as I am.
Thanks for your help
#4
#5
The battery is probably 4 or 5 years old, but the bike probably hasn't seen more than 15 or 20 hours total on the road during that time. Then there's the battery tender keeping it charged. I don't know much about the electrical. I think I found the relay, but I don't know what or how to test it. I cleaned the contacts though.
The frustrating part is I can see the solenoid push the starter gear out, so I know it's working. But most of the time it just knocks into the clutch gear without engaging because the teeth don't seem to be lined up to mesh together. Once in a while it gets it right and the bike starts right up.
I just don't know.
The frustrating part is I can see the solenoid push the starter gear out, so I know it's working. But most of the time it just knocks into the clutch gear without engaging because the teeth don't seem to be lined up to mesh together. Once in a while it gets it right and the bike starts right up.
I just don't know.
#6
My 89 Softail could be different. I intially got part of the jackshaft assembly assembled incorrect. There is a small shaft that can be reinstalled backwards. Had similar problems. Pulled it out, flipped it around and all was good. Final torque on jackshaft bolt was/is also important. Not in front of manual, apoligies for vagueness. Someone else with better knowledge will hopefully clarify.
#8
So I decided to replace the starter clutch/drive since I've seen several places that it is broken if it turns both ways, as mine did. When I got the part installed and everything put back together I tried to start it. It engaged and started to turn the clutch but it only moved not even a quarter of the way around and then stalled. I tried it a couple times before I heard a sharp "crack". After that it was back to only engaging part of the time. Sure enough, the starter drive was broken again, turning both ways when it didn't when it was new.
What am I doing wrong?
One of the things I'm wondering about is why can't I turn the clutch basket, the whole assembly by hand? Even with the clutch lever pulled in, nothing seems to help. Is this normal. I guess I'm wondering if it is just too hard to turn that the starter/drive physically can't turn it and the starter drive breaks trying. Does that make any sense? If so, how do I fix it.
Any help is appreciated. I'm so frustrated
What am I doing wrong?
One of the things I'm wondering about is why can't I turn the clutch basket, the whole assembly by hand? Even with the clutch lever pulled in, nothing seems to help. Is this normal. I guess I'm wondering if it is just too hard to turn that the starter/drive physically can't turn it and the starter drive breaks trying. Does that make any sense? If so, how do I fix it.
Any help is appreciated. I'm so frustrated
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xcbullet (04-08-2017)
#9
So I decided to replace the starter clutch/drive since I've seen several places that it is broken if it turns both ways, as mine did. When I got the part installed and everything put back together I tried to start it. It engaged and started to turn the clutch but it only moved not even a quarter of the way around and then stalled. I tried it a couple times before I heard a sharp "crack". After that it was back to only engaging part of the time. Sure enough, the starter drive was broken again, turning both ways when it didn't when it was new.
What am I doing wrong?
One of the things I'm wondering about is why can't I turn the clutch basket, the whole assembly by hand? Even with the clutch lever pulled in, nothing seems to help. Is this normal. I guess I'm wondering if it is just too hard to turn that the starter/drive physically can't turn it and the starter drive breaks trying. Does that make any sense? If so, how do I fix it.
Any help is appreciated. I'm so frustrated
What am I doing wrong?
One of the things I'm wondering about is why can't I turn the clutch basket, the whole assembly by hand? Even with the clutch lever pulled in, nothing seems to help. Is this normal. I guess I'm wondering if it is just too hard to turn that the starter/drive physically can't turn it and the starter drive breaks trying. Does that make any sense? If so, how do I fix it.
Any help is appreciated. I'm so frustrated
Cheers!