I can't find anything suitable for the 07 as stock is 34 tooth. Fisher's torsional damper only goes to 25 for the earlier models. If I can get a damn ids for my softail, I'd go with the 30 tooth no comp and be done with it. They are available from Evolution Industries.
Ron

 

Just pulled the comp on my 07 Softail today and have to clear up some things that are incorrect on this forum. First of all the spring pack is easily replaced. Its a total of 4 wave washers which can be purchased at any reputable spring shop. Sure the hub is welded but the springs are installed after and the edge of the drum has 3 dimples to keep the washers from falling out on the floor. The design of the comps sprocket is such that it has a fairly nuetral flat spot at the bottom of the ramps which give about 10 degrees of no comp action for pulses. This area is responsible for most of the noise for knocking which sounds like a rod knockeven if the comp is torqued correctly. A weak spring pack will agrivate this. It's easy to rotate the sprocket to it's full spring loaded condition with a small ratchet. This tells me the pack is too weak for it's intended design. It also means the comp will be bottomed out under load and not doing it's intended job.I will do some stacking demensions as well as rotation checks and find the best combination of waves to see if I can get the higher needed pressure while maintaining operational rotation. Almost tempted as it bottoms under load anyway to make a spacer and just bottom it out and eliminate all the movement. I was surprised as to what a big *** mean mother this thing is. Pictures don't do it justice.
Ron

 

Got my bike back with 30th sprocketinstalled on my superglide. I currentlydo not have IDS installed because of the wider nightrainwheel hubthat I'm running, but will cross that bridge later.I am very pleased with the results. No more clunk, no more knocking like before and a lot more pep/response. It issnowing here so I am notable to ride much.

 

Let me know what you decide to do, I have my engine apart, and it is very easy to tell the compensator has been bottoming out (scarring in the stator where it has been hitting). I too thought about increasing the spring strength, but as it is an experiment, didn't know what to expect. I would really like to go to a 32 tooth engine sprocket, the 30 tooth might be too much for me as I ride a lot of highway miles. Plus the 30 tooth eliminates the compensator, don't know what to expect there either, although I am running the IDS. Lots of thoughts, not much in the way of answers yet. The reason EVO Industries does not make a 32 tooth is that you would need a half link in the primary chain, going to the 30 tooth, eliminates one full link. When you buy the sprocket, you get the chain.

 

Dalton: Somewhat confused about your comment on hitting the rotor. The springpack is in the cup that's attached to the rotor housing. The sprocket always stays the same distance from it but the cam gets pushed back into the springpack housing until the Bellville washers (4) which are cupped get flattend. This is the bottoming out effect. Never checked the actual degrees the sprocket rotates in the cam but it's about 25-30. From neutral to full bottom is .155 deflection on the springpack. Each washer is a nominal thickness of .096 thick. I want something in the area of .110 ish for what I'm trying to accomplish. I need a few days for my sources to come through with what's available. What's interesting about these things is you won't get more pressure with more as the pressure is set with one. The rest just give compressability range. There's maybe the possiblity of going with a progressive pack where two normal pressure washers are there for the regular loads and two heavier ones for heavy loads.

If you have the ids , my view is the no comp sprocket would be fine, but like you say at 30 teeth, you will need about 500 rpm more for the same speed. Not good if you tour alot. Hole shots would be awesome.
Ron

 

Actually the 30th has a 300 rpm gain. This makes crusing at 60-75mph with only a15 mph differencex rpm in 6th. I have done my share of two-up freeway riding in sixth up the passes just to have to down shift because of heat and pinging.Except for a slight and I mean slight incress in vibration the bike performs much better all around and this is without a comp, youfeel the raw torque transfer to the wheel, feels great!In 6th at 60 bike pulls strong and cruses at 75 -80 inthe good power band for my stocker.Do not take my word for it Latus HD isNOW endorsing the removal of the compensator, in favor of the IDS, as a option,for their custom street builds.

Does anyone want a good compensator and chain, pay shiping.

 

Treeextractor,

I'm interested inthe compensator. Let me know how much to NH, and I'll send you a check. This sounds like just the ticket to find out if my compensatoris what is causing the knocking noise I'm hearing. I was thinking of buying a new one, but that wouldn't prove anything if it still knocked, because the new one may not be any better than the one I take off. At least you know yours was good. Let me know.

Thanks,
Bob.

 

Can you describe how the springs are located and actuatedto havethe pressure set with just one. I haven't looked atthe spring assemblyyet to know? Thanks!

 

Cynic: There are 4 bellville or disc washers in there. They are not wave washers as some have mentioned.
Going from the rotor, the first one is cupped outward. The second is cupped inward. The third is cupped outward and the last one against the cam is cupped inward. This is called series stacking and basically the pressure is what one spring washer would take to compress, but it gives more travel in compression by doing this, or stroke.Pissed me off, no such size of these things in any books at work. They are a Harley custom manufacture. Now on to plan (b).
Ron

 

Thanks Ron! Gives me something to think about...