Hi all...This question stems from another thread I started in the engine section where I described a very nasty noise and vibration coming from the bike last time I rode her. I got a lot of really good feedback that it may be a compensator problem.

I pulled my primary inspection cover off to view my compensator for damage and to see if it was loose.

The compensator looks to be in good shape. There are some savings in the primary oil, nothing really bad, mostly at the primary drain. My question is should you be able to turn the compensator with your fingers? Also, should there be any plan in the outer shell of the compensator?

I can turn the outer housing of the compensator with my fingertips fairly easy. Also, if I put pressure on the edge of the outer housing, there is a small amount of play in the compensator...enough to make it rattle back and forth.

Is this normal for the compensator?

Thanks again for your help everyone
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No it's toast. Actually the spring pack is garbage. There is no way you should be able to move it by hand in rotation or in and out. The compassembly itself may still be tight on the engine but the cam is not being pushed against the sprocket. A new spring pack is in order. There may also be damage to the lobes and ramps from running in this condition as well. If you take it apart make sure you put paint marks on mating cam/sprocket lobes and pockets so it can go back the same way.
Ron

 

Hi Ron, thank you for this info...even though it appears my bike is broke and I’ll be spending money, it's almost a relief in a weird way to know that the problem has likely been found.

I have another question for ya if you don't mind...when you say damage to the lobes and ramps...can you explain what these are, what they do, are the a part of the compensator assembly?

It looks like I will be trying to do the work myself if possible...I called HD and I was wrong regarding warranty...mine did run out so it looks like I am on my own with this one. From your experience, is this something that can be done at home with the tools and aservice manual? Or should I bear down and take it to a good shop to get it repaired.

 

You'll probably need an air impact to get the nut off. If you have, or can borrow a large air tank (like for pumping up a flat tire) and plumb even a cheap air wrench to it, that'll probably do to get the nut off. (that's what I use)

You'll know all about the "cams" when that falls off. Just look at them and check for abrupt high spots on the surfaces. They don't wear bad in an oil primary, by running a bad compensator "could" cause a bit of abnormal wear.

Also, use a pick and/or tiny wire brush to clean out the dried up Loctite from the threads inside the nut.And apply Loctite before re-assembly.

 

If you use a sprocket locking tool (flat bar) the comp bolt will come off without too much trouble. Once the comp is off you will see the ramps in the gear part and the lobes that mate to it on the cam. In a good spring pack these will rub and always be under pressure. In your case, look for impact damage near the start of the ramp since yours was not returning to its neutral point being so slack. You will see what I'm talking about.
Ron

 

Ok, I drained the primary fluid and pulled the outer primary cover off.

The compensator nut was indeed loose...I could loosen it up with my fingers.

I backed off the compensator nut and pulled the assembly off. It doesn't appear chewed up...the spring pack in the outer assemble is there, but can't tell if its good or bad.

I'm going to wait on going any farther on the tear down until I get my service manuel. It should be comming any day now. Then it's back to business.



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For some strange reason I thought we were talking about the 07 + compensator. From the pictures it is not. In your case it's a nut, not a bolt as in 07. The basic operation is the same as well as the defects should they occur. It does seem from all the reading I've done that this model has a nasty habit of loosening the nut. Don't ride it any more in that condition as some nasty damage will occur to the rotor too. Check the splines on the altenator rotor for still being tight, and overall condition of comp. Maybe all you will need to do is clean all old loctite off the nut and shaft and justretorque it. Do a search on the nut assembly as to machining some off or adding a washer on the outside to prevent bottoming out and not tightening the whole assembly up enough before final assembly. Do a trial nut spin on, and snug it until you feel resistance. Use a small wrench and no loctite at this point. There should be at least 1 or more revolution needed to actually bottom the nut to the tight state. This range is where the nut is compressing the spring pack. Work the nut back and forth and you will see what's going on here. If the nut just goes to the wall, without this resistance, the pack is crap. At least in your case, you can just buy the springpack where us 07+ owners get boned into having to buy the whole altenator rotor which has the pack in it. Sounds like you should be lucky enough to just do the retorque with red loctite, but check all the other things I mentioned so you can do the job right and one time, which will be more than most dealers can do.
Ron

 

If your bike is a 2003 to 2005 you want to get HD service bulletin M-1170 for the correct compensating sprocket tightening procedure. Apparently you torque to 75ft lbs and then turn the nut tight another 45-50 degrees. The bulletin is pretty specific so get a copy if your bike is one of those.

 

Thanks for the great infoRBABOS and KBFXDLI, I just got my 2004 Softail (my bike is an 04Heritage)service manual in the mail today...gonna break it out and start reading up.

I'll post pictures as I go for anybody who wants to view them. I'm really hoping I caught this before I did any serious damage. I did ride the bike another 50 miles after I started hearing noise...but I really tried to baby her back home those 50 miles as best I could.

I'll definitely be pulling the clutch basked, compensator, and chain off so that I can get a good cleaning on those cam threads. I looked in the compensator nut and there was plenty of lock tight in there, I’m thinking it wasn't put on when the cam threads were completely clean.

I'll make sure to check the rotor and stator while it's apart as well.

I was wondering, is there any "meaningful" way to check the condition of cam bearing where the compensator failure was behind the stator at this point? Or would I need to tear the bike down farther to get a realistic view of the bearing?

As for the service bulletin on proper tightening of the compensator nut, I'm downloading it as I type!

 

The cam bearing is on the other side. As for the crank bearing, it will be fine. You didn't run it long enought to likely destroy any of the parts. It is quite possible the threads were not cleaned prior to loctite if you could spin the nut by your fingers.
Ron