Has anyone out there installed one of these new improved SE compensators yet? If so, please let us know if there is any improvement in the drive line.

 

I preordered one last month along with the lefty bearing and sleeve and SE clutch kit. In the mean time I just had my bike tuned on the dyno and all noises in what I thought was the primary have gone away except fifth gear. I haven't decided to install it yet cause I'm not sure I need it anymore. Sorry for not answering the question, though I'm interested also...

 

I’m in the process of rebuilding (top end only) the engine in my 07 Street Glide from a 96” to a 103” with heads, pistons (10.5-1), cams, etc. The remainder of my parts, including the SE Compensator, should be delivered early next week. I also considered installing the SE Lefty bearing but didn't really want to split the cases at this time, so maybe I'll do this and other bottom end work sometime in the future. The stock compensator is already too weak for the the stock engine, so I figured the SE compensator would help reduce some of the racket when shifting and the shock on the driveline, particularly with the increased torgue/HP from the 103" engine. It will likely be a couple weeks before the rebuild takes place. Once the engine is completed and I've put a few hunderd miles on it, I'll provide some feedback on my experience with the SE compensator.

 

Just got my SE comp, and it's still in the box. Won't know how well it works until next spring as it's a winter project. Can't complain about the stock modified one on there now , but would like to use the improved model and compare.
Ron

 

What does a Screamin Eagle compensator sprocket do differently from a factory one?

 

It eliminates the mickey mouse spring pack in the rotor of the stock unit, which means you get a new rotor along with the comp unit. It will be higher pressure spring rate and likely more travel to keep the cushion rate more effective at higher loads. The stock unit bottoms almost immediately with load, essentually a no comp situation. Hell, even the starter will bottom it out causing that bang called starter knock.
Ron

 

rbabos, I read your thread several months ago regarding the modifications you made to your stock compensator. I was considering making the same modifications to mine but HD was chasing a noise problem in my drive line and I wanted them to solve that problem first. HD replaced my original compensator trying to figure out why my primary/drive line was so noisy. The new one wasn't any or much better than the original one and they didn't cure the noise problem. To make a long story short, after replacing the bearings in the clutch assembly and main input shaft on the transmission with no improvement, they finally replaced the primary chain and tensioner and that solved the noise problem. I'll be glad to get ride of this stock (junk) compensator and I hope this SE unit stops most of the banging and knocking that comes from the original unit.

 

It should take care of the problem. By modding mine, I have no starter knock, banging or knocking, but I do at certain load conditions go solid still and it pulses due to reduced cam travel.. Mine is on a softail , so no ids to help the comp out. The increased travel in the new SE comp will take care of the pulsing in my case.
Ron

 

Ron: please let me know because I don't get any comp noise but do get a bit of starter knock.

 

Will do when I get it on but I'm sure others will get it on sooner than I will and report. You do realize what exactly that starter knock is caused from? Maybe I shouldn't scare the crap out of you but it's good to know anyway. Goes like this. Starter rotates engine and spins the comp to the point of spring bind on the discs from cam/ramp action or close to it. Engine starts, reverses the load and agressively does the same thing the other way. The sound you hear is not the cam/ramp running out of room but the cam bottoms the spring pack out. The gear is hammered outward, away from the engine as it contains the ramp . The cam goes in compressing and bottoming the springs as it has the ramp. The effect of all this is it trys to pull the shaft out of the flywheel. Like a slow speed hammer drill. Same thing goes on in high load conditons near lugging rpms. These forces are no small potatoes and I have to wonder how many cranks have been damaged from this alone? This may very well be the reason for the redesign of the whole unit.
Ron