The book says to loosen the locknut on the clutch adjuster screw. Take up all free play in the push rods, turn inward (clockwise) until lightly seated. Then back out the adjuster screw 1/2 to 1 turn. While holding the adjuster screw with an allen wrench, tighten locknut to 8-14Nm.

My question is the 1/2 to 1 turn. If you leave it at 1/2 turn out will the clutch grab sooner or later as you release it?

 

OK worked it out. Fist off when you go into the clutch adjustment make sure you have an offset 11/16 wrench cause the locknut is far enough in the case that a regular wrench won't work. The torque spec for the locknut is 8-14Nm but when you go to loosen it, you find out right away that it's not on there at 14Nm, the rotation of the clutch basket tightens the thing up so you are going to have to use a little force to break it loose. What I figured out by playing with the adjustment was................. If you set the adjuster screw 1/2 turn out the clutch will grab further out on the release, If you set it at 1 turn out if will grab sooner on the release. When I went to do the adjustment my clutch was grabbing way out, (the friction zone), like the last 1/3, I hope I've moved it so it grabs on the first 1/3, will know tomorrow on the way to work.

 

I set mine at 3/4 to 1 full turn out. That way I'm absolutely sure that the clutch is fully engaged. I don't really care where is starts to engage or disengage. Since I have an extra-plate kit in it, it's usually completely disengaged by the time the lever is pulled about 1 inch (measured at the tip). I also adjust the cable to the full 1/8 inch of free play. That's my 2 cents....