What I have is a blended FXE. '75 frame, '82 engine-tranny, and assorted
other pieces.
Belt primary, long bearing kit for clutch hub, new friction disc on hub.
Pressure plate has new springs.
New Alto RedEagle discs, and the original steel plates (checked for warp).
New adjusting bolt, locknut, pushrod (large bearing), cable, handle, and
handle pivot housing.
Pressure plate clearance, release lever to tranny clearance, and hand lever freeplay are all to spec: 13/16", 1-1/32", 1/16"
I still have clutch engagement with lever fully pulled to handle.
I can hold the bike in first with cluch pulled, but it is pulling.
What am I missing? Do I need to back-off the 3 pressure plate nuts
or what.
Also, I did the adjustment "by the book" and "easy adjustment" from the DIY tech forum. No difference.
Thanks.

 

I don't have a clue as to the nomenclature of the exact parts you mentioned, but if it won't lift...maladjust the push rod and cable to an extreme point that it will lift and see if you can work backwards. If you are using HD spec adjustments along with all the other stuff you have in the basket....maybe that is no good. There has to be some point at which the lift mechanism will lift it and if it won't, something is wrong in the ball-n-ramp mechanics or an adjustment. Tighten the push rod up until it firmly bottoms-out against the pressure plate/retainer taking up all the slack in the cable and pull the thing. If it won't bottom out and take-up the cable slack...you may need a longer push rod.

 

Thanks for the reply.....gives me something to try.
Still wish there was some reference to the adjustment of the
pressure-plate springs in the book or elsewhere.
Later.........

 

I am sure you can find something concerning those springs on the web somewhere, but as I recall, the fasteners just ran down to a stopping point and that is what you have. Pressure is altered by a change in springs. A hydraulic clutch will only lift so far, but a mechanical clutch should lift...or brake a cable if your arm is strong enough. Maybe with the stock adjustments you have tried, the cable simply is too loose to pull the slack and take up the stretch. It must be lifting "some" as you say "won't fully disengage". If you pull the lever down to a stopping point before it hits the grip and it still won't fully lift, something is out of range or you have a clutch-stack that is too tall.

 

Ok, Thanks again. Since the friction discs were replaced new and are
after-market, they may be too thick to work with the stock steel discs.
I will check stack height.
Later.

 

Clutch had been converted from chain to dry belt.

Inner primary was warped slightly, causing crank and tranny shaft to not be parallel.
The heat of the powder-coating process could have caused the warpage.

Replace inner primary and clutch works correctly. In the process of chasing this down, I
had replaced everything from lever to adjusting nuts. Dang smooth clutch, now.