Well, everything was reasonably OK until I installed a RevTech Digital Fuel Optimizer which turned my engine into a new beast. Now, the clutch is slipping when I roll the throttle in any gear but mostly 2nd and 3rd. I am looking at replacing the clutch discs and plates. Milwaukee Twins has a kit with 9 Kevlar friction plates and 8 steel plates for $97. Barnett has a kit with 10 carbon fiber friction plates and 9 steel plates ($148). Anyone have any suggestions on other kits? Would it be a good idea to replace the diaphram spring? Anyone used the extra friction plate kit?

2001 RK with 38k on the clock. The engine is an 88 cubic incher with no other mods except the SE mufflers and K&N air filter. I don't think I need to go crazy here. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Your clutch was toast before the fuel upgrade. An 88 inch motor doesn't have enough power to fry a healthy stock clutch. However, that aside I run an Energy One Kevlar clutch (it comes with steels too) and is avail for under $100. Works great, beaten daily with over 108+/109+ on tap in a bagger Install an SE spring, and the new release ***** and ramps from H-D and you will have great clamping and easier lever effort.

 

Yea, I know the DFO wasn't the cause of this. I quickly figured out that the increase in horses probably did the trick. Now, my wife is looking at me kind of funny though. Ever tried to explain a sequence of mechanical/electronic events to a skeptical woman? One thing leads to another and so on.

So you chose Kevlar. I'll keep that in mind. I thought I would get the SE spring but then thought there might be too much lever pull. Thanks for explaining about the new ramp. It seems like at least a new stock spring would be a good idea.

I'm looking for a bit of an upgrade here. I guess it will have to be to stand the extra ponies I now have. I'm curious about the kits with the extra plate. Barnett says it increases the surface area of the clutch by 11%. I wonder if there is anything special about installing it.

 

I run the se spring with stock plates.....a little more hand effort ...might be a little much for some ladys out there
o ya 95in milled ported bla bla bla dosnt slip a bit

 

I've got a 100+ hp Sporty and my clutch went south a few weeks ago. I checked around for advice on what to use. 100% of the advice was Barnett. You might want to take the clutch apart to see what's worn before you buy any components. I replaced so many parts that I think I could have bought a complete clutch assembly for less money.

 

Good advice! However, I already ordered the Barnett Kevlar extra disc clutch pack and a SE clutch spring. I hope that was not a bad idea. If it was I can always use it as a frisby and reuse the old one. Does anyone know if you must remove the damper spring and seat in order to make room for the two extra rings? I saw a tech tip in the J&P catalog about that. I was wondering if the steel rings were thinner but maybe the damper stuff must go. Will that effect the way the clutch operates?

One thing that might be of interest to all: When I removed the primary drain plug and looked at the little magnet only half of it was there. It fell off into the rag. Later I found the other half. It had been riding around on the back side of the starter ring gear. It is a pretty soft magnet so I don't think it would cause any harm in the primary but you never know. I'm just going to leave it out. A while back I sawed off the transmission dip stick because I heard they have been known to break off and mix it up with the gears. I always check my trans oil at home anyway so I made a fake dip stick to use for that purpose.

Parts should be here in a few days. Why is it that you always want to ride really bad when the thing is down for repair?

 

OK, new Barnett extra disc clutch pack installed this morning. Everything went well. The way they are able to fit in an extra friction disc and steel ring is that their friction discs are thinner than the OEM discs. The friction discs are on an aluminum core and that core is thinner. The friction material, like brake pads, look almost worn out to me when they are new. I guess that is normal but to an old mechanic, I'd like to see more meat on these things. I used a new SE clutch spring and the pull on the lever is not bad at all. I have no trouble with it and it should make the clutch last longer. For those interested on another thread, I reused the primary gasket which is not the original. No leaks.

Thanks for the advice during this fix.

 

thanks for the update on this....i'm putting in the 06 ball and ramp assembly today to help with the clutch pull since i put in the SE clutch spring....clutch will be replaced when i do the heads and get some real power......

 

I bet you had to search for this post deuce dude! I thought it was long gone. To update: I still had trouble with the clutch slipping, even with the new friction/steel discs and the SE type spring. I've had the primary cover off so many times I now consider it my hobby. I finally realized that the O.E. clutch pressure plate and the bottom of the hub are worn down preventing proper pressure on the pack. The pressure plate bottoms out on the hub. It will eventually need a new (real) clutch installed but for now it works fine with an extra friction disc installed. That restored the clutch pack to near the correct thickness. I've put on a thousand miles since and rode it 150 today. The problem is that they let the front and back friction discs run on aluminum instead of steel. Why am I not surprised?

After buying I don't know how many quarts of oil for the primary I finally decided to run ATF fluid in the primary. That has made a big difference as it holds better than with anything else I've tried including the new H-D primary oil. A little ATF seal conditioner works wonders for the primary seal too.

My bike is for sale below and I make no excuses for H-D. Sure it will need a new clutch. Eventually it will need cams and gears, belts and pulleys and on and on and on. I need out. Somebody please make me an offer!