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Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch Find answers to general powertrain, primary and transmission. Have clutch issues and need suggestions? Post them here.
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  #91  
Old 03-16-2012, 08:27 PM
PacBlue_07 PacBlue_07 is offline
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Default Clutch cable adjuster at last thread!

2007 Ultra - No engine mods
My clutch feels good, and pretty sure it is adjusted correctly at the basket following 'By the book". At my last adjustemnt at 30,000 miles my clutch cable adjustment was all the way out on the last thread to get my 1/16" to 1/8" freeplay. I went through the adjustment proccess 2 or 3 times to ensure it was correct. Am i at the end of my clutch cables life? or do you think i have adjusted it wrong?

Thanks
Dave
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2005 Deluxe - Wifes
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  #92  
Old 03-17-2012, 07:28 AM
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RodeoHard RodeoHard is offline
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Default Missing Third Gear

Great info in this thread!

My question is as follows:

Sometimes when I am shifting from 2nd to 3rd, it does not shift and I have to pull up harder on the lever. Is this a clutch or transmission issue?

1990 Softail
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Joe

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  #93  
Old 03-17-2012, 07:47 AM
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hogdoctor hogdoctor is offline
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Default end of cable life

Dave, your clutch cable could be stretched to it's limit, or if you find it's rapidly gaining freeplay, you could have metal strands breaking in the cable and impending doom. You can reduce the pushrod freeplay at the basket screw down to a half turn out without risk and get you into a working range on your cable adjuster.

Patrick
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  #94  
Old 03-17-2012, 08:01 AM
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hogdoctor hogdoctor is offline
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Default hard upshift

Joe, I had a similar problem with my '99 FLHT right out of the box. A common problem that causes hard shifting is insufficient release of the clutch, usually due to incorrect clutch adjustment, too much or too thick primary oil, or warped clutch plates. (or a stretchy clutch cable like Dave's) The problem is having too much pressure on the transmission gears and the dogs don't want to release. I lived with the problem for a year and 10k miles, I compensated by taking a bit extra time between 2nd and 3rd with the clutch released, I'd blip the throttle to help the clutch release a bit better, sometimes it would help, sometimes not.
It seemed to happen more when the bike was hot, so I suspected the shift drum was binding somehow. I never really got to the bottom of it, rather, I changed the factory shift drum to a Baker drum, upgrading the plunger style detent to a roller style. Now it's been shifting like a wet dream ever since. If it had not, I would be looking for bent shift forks or fork shaft.
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  #95  
Old 04-01-2012, 10:03 AM
mike1962 mike1962 is offline
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I have 1962 sportster and Ive fried 2 clutch release worm levers. Springs are adjusted to 3/16 inch , but when I pull back on clutch there seems like there is just too much pressure , and it bends the lever . Anyone have any ideas . Im sure its something Im doing wrong. Like thats never happened before.
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  #96  
Old 04-27-2012, 03:43 PM
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Gommee Gommee is offline
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Default Clutch slipping

07 Street Bob six speed 14,000 km

I did the the adjustment from the book because I could let my clutch out most of the way and the clutch would finally grab with a little coaxing at about 3/4 out. I still have lots of adjustment on the cable left, but the clutch seems to be still slipping. I am also getting the clunk going from neutral to first.
I want the clutch to be positive and get some response when starting from a stopped position. The way it is now, there would be no possible way to chirp my tires off the line. Not that I do that, but it is surely not a positive response.

I backed the screw out about 1/2 turn.

Can you tell me where I went wrong? Does the allen screw need to be out more or less? Do I need to add the SE clutch spring? Is my clutch shot and need replacing?
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2007 Street Bob - R.I.P.
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  #97  
Old 04-28-2012, 08:27 AM
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hogdoctor hogdoctor is offline
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once your cable and release mechanism go slack, it's all up to the clutch plates and spring to transmit the power. If it's still slipping, then you may need more spring pressure, and since it's dragging and slipping, the steel plates quite possibly are toasted and warped.
I'd start with a rip out and inspect, and new clutch pack considered based on that. you can consider a stronger spring as well.
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  #98  
Old 04-28-2012, 11:33 AM
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Gommee Gommee is offline
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14,000 km on a clutch seems pretty bad. Would HD warranty cover that?
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  #99  
Old 05-02-2012, 03:15 PM
brown dawg brown dawg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hogdoctor View Post
What I mean by a 'soft' clutch is one that starts to engage when the lever is near the grip and is easy to control, and hooks up solid when the lever is nearly fully released. A 'hard' clutch doesn't start engaging until the lever is
nearly released and hooks up like a hammer, harder to control. Most clutches have mechanisms built in to make them softer, ie warp plates, or spring plates, so they start to engage sooner.

A clutch has two primary jobs, on one end it has to hook up solid and deliver all the torque to the transmission, and on the other end it has to release fully to allow for shifting and stopping. A soft clutch needs a lot more pressure plate (and thus lever) travel to accomplish this, a hard clutch does not need nearly as much.

A hard clutch is easy to adjust, you can put the point of engagement anywhere in the lever travel you want... I typically put about a quarter inch extra cable free play in there so it hooks up closer to the handlebar, makes it easier to control. The softer it gets, the point of engagement and the point of release get further apart, so you can't afford to leave as much slack in the cable.. you need more pressure plate travel to get it fully released. If you've got the cable freeplay down to nearly nothing and it's still dragging, then you've got a problem to solve. A cheaply made or failing clutch cable will make your clutch feel soft. warped, swollen or dished clutch plates will as well. Another thing to watch for is clutches that float laterally, ie the bearing that controls the mainshaft could be floating or getting sloppy or there may be too much lateral slop in transmissions that are mounted on a spline with a clip.

Push rod adjustments are overrated. As long as you maintain some free play there, your throwout bearing will not be loaded constantly when the lever is released. The only thing the push rod adjustment really changes is what part of the ball and ramp release mechanism you're using.

Hogdoctor
going in for a dyno tune soon was thinking about adjusting at clutch ive always just adjusted at cable i have 13000 mi on her clutch feels good to me so should i just leave it alone
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  #100  
Old 05-29-2012, 11:30 AM
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saxxin saxxin is offline
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I have a 2012 Ultra Classic with 15,000 miles. Recently, I noticed the clutch starting to engage if I was accelerating fairly aggressively in fifth gear - the RPMs would start climbing with no associated increase in speed.

I've adjusted the clutch in accordance with the factory manual three times now. I'm making adjustments at room temperature. The first couple of times - I backed off the adjustment screw 1/2 turn after feeling the first tension. Last night I adjusted it again and backed it off 3/4 turn before locking it down.

Slack at the lever is minimal - approx 1/8th inch. Bike shifts smoothly. Starts to pull just before halfway out on release of the lever. Everything seems ok but still getting the RPM runaway when aggressively accelerating in fifth. What might I try to do differently? Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:30 AM
 
 
 
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