[QUOTE=hogdoctor;8431338]I have found clutch baskets running out causing the primary chain free play to vary an extreme amount, and it's always been caused by a bent mainshaft.
The basket support bearing would need to have an obvious traumatic failure in order to cause basket runout issues. The "throwout" bearing is on the other side of the bike, the right end of the transmission, and allows the clutch release mechanism to put pressure on the spinning throwout pushrod.

So are you talking Main Drive Shaft that turns comp sprocket? How would I check those bearings? I have 08 FXDB 103" My clutch is Barnett W/Extra Plate.How does the extra plate relate to the whole clutch adjusting? Anything I should be aware of. I'm in the middle of replacing clutch cable, it was a smidgin to short. Got clutch housing off but snap ring was bit bigger than expected. Any recommendations on Snap Ring Plier sets or sizes? What should I look for wear while I have Housing off? I know thats a lot of questions. If you can redirect me or answer some any info at all. I am having problems with stock auto tensioner. Looking at the Hayes M6, but now worried about main shaft. Your posts have been life & money savers.

 

The level of fluid in primary should be checked with bike up right correct?

 

Correct. The level should just cover the bottom of the clutch pack.

 

Just put on one 12 inch apes on my 13 sportster 48 and replaced all cables. After adjustment and test ride the bike seems to lose throttle halfway, any ideas?

 

My 2008 Nightster has developed an issue. I had to replace the oring where the clutch cable attaches to the trans cover.
I drained the fluid, removed the derby cover.
Then I took off the spring and nut.
Then I loosened the adjusting screw and took off the cable holder thing.
I pulled the the cable out, swapped the o ring.
I put everything back together , tightened the adjusting screw , then backed off 1/4 turn .
When I put it in 1st gear, not neutral, it makes a grinding noise and slips. I get no power.
Could I have loosened the adjusting nut too much ?

 

I have an 88 sportster 883. Got on it one day and it wouldn't roll with the clutch pulled in. Adjusted the clutch, it worked fine but the lever had slack and didn't return when released. Adjusting it doesn't get it. I believe it to be a stretched cable. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Not that familiar with Sportsters, however your comment reminds me of my 77 Bonneville. When I don't use it for a long period of time, the clutch plates stick together. I once had the bright idea of starting it in neutral and then slamming it into first. Don't do that! :-)
The last time it happened about a month ago, I decided to start it up and let it idle until everything warmed up. That was all it took. Free and easy after that. I started thinking that maybe if I tie the clutch lever in, it would leave the plates loose and maybe it would not be a problem at all. Haven't tried it yet though.

 

This thread has been really helpful with my 02 HLFRI RK, as my baby has slowly started slipping. It's currently -30 degrees here right now but hopefully when it warms up I can get my clutch adjusted and not have to sell my belongings to take it to HD for service! Thanks all.

 

Well the manual does say to adjust the clutch with the engine cold.
I think -30 degrees would qualify.

 

I had an unrelated problem but one of the suggestions I got was to check for a frayed cable. Symptoms your describing sound like a possible cable problem.