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Clutch Adjustment By The Book

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  #141  
Old 02-21-2015, 01:16 PM
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I just replaced the clutch cable on my 80 Shovel FLT 5 speed. Have followed this adjustment procedure, but still have a problem. Loosen cable - then open derby and adjust the clutch rod - then adjust the cable. All is good and I go for a ride. Within a mile, I'm loosing all my resistance at the lever. I limp home and the lever is flopping. I repeat the alignment and again, all seems normal. Go for another ride and same problem...first 10 or 20 up and down shifts are all good, then again I start loosing my handle resistance. Opening the derby and the jam nut is still tight every time. What am I missing? My Panhead and Twin Cam have neither acted like this.
 
  #142  
Old 02-28-2015, 07:03 PM
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Well, sorry for asking such a difficult question. Found more help in the Shovelhead forum.
 
  #143  
Old 03-24-2015, 08:59 PM
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If i put a screamin eagle clutch pack in my 07 road king do i have to put a different pressure plate in or is stock one fine?
 
  #144  
Old 04-02-2015, 10:27 PM
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The stock should work but I would go with new pressure plate. Since you went with SE pack you should put SE pressure plate while your in there. It should be stiffer, which will help the plates engage stronger. I went with Barnett extra clutch plate kit, so I don't know for sure that the SE pressure plate is stiffer just a guess. Looking at the 2015 MoCo Parts & Accessories Book.They have the Heavy Duty Spring for under 40$. I think the cost is worth it. Please let me know what you do and how you like it.
 
  #145  
Old 05-18-2015, 05:49 PM
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Default clutch adjustment issues

I have a 2003 road king with only @ 16000 miles on it. I recently replaced all the fluids in the engine and tranny. I adjusted the clutch(using the by the book method) several times anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 turns of the adjustment screw and the engagement position does not seem to change. It releases very near full out. What am I missing? thanx for the help.
 
  #146  
Old 05-20-2015, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by firefishq
I have a 2003 road king with only @ 16000 miles on it. I recently replaced all the fluids in the engine and tranny. I adjusted the clutch(using the by the book method) several times anywhere from 1/4 to 3/4 turns of the adjustment screw and the engagement position does not seem to change. It releases very near full out. What am I missing? thanx for the help.
Probably a dumb question since you referred to "by the book", but did you take all the tension off the clutch lever before adjustment? Then snug up the clutch cluster and back of the recommended turn? Then readjust the clutch lever?
 
  #147  
Old 08-07-2015, 07:13 PM
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Default Gear Engages Before Start

Hi. I have a 2014 Sportster 883 Superlow with < 4,000 miles on it. I'm a new rider so maybe this isn't a problem but thought I would ask. With the bike shut off and in 1st gear it will not roll with the clutch held firmly all the way in. If I start it like this it lurches JUST a bit, until the engine is running. Then I can roll freely with the clutch in. Is this normal, or do I need to adjust my clutch?

Wes
 
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  #148  
Old 08-08-2015, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by wsonner
Hi. I have a 2014 Sportster 883 Superlow with < 4,000 miles on it. I'm a new rider so maybe this isn't a problem but thought I would ask. With the bike shut off and in 1st gear it will not roll with the clutch held firmly all the way in. If I start it like this it lurches JUST a bit, until the engine is running. Then I can roll freely with the clutch in. Is this normal, or do I need to adjust my clutch?

Wes
Perfectly normal dude.

It's ok to leave your bike in gear when it's parked but try to remember to have it back in neutral before you start it. your starter will live a lot longer.
 
  #149  
Old 08-08-2015, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Alain
Perfectly normal dude.

It's ok to leave your bike in gear when it's parked but try to remember to have it back in neutral before you start it. your starter will live a lot longer.
Awesome! Thanks so much!

Wes
 
  #150  
Old 09-09-2015, 07:01 AM
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Yes once the primary oil warms a little, the fluid around the plates allows it to move more freely. He's right on starting in neutral when all possible. If your bike is cold, you have trouble just pushing it. Think how much more the starter has to work. It's the simple things that make it last longer. If your caught at green light and kill it, pull clutch in and start it. I know from experience nothing shittier than a stalled bike holding people up. Ride Offensively and Have Fun.
 


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