OK, here's my solution. I went back and did the "Clutch Adjustment the Easy Way" method in the transmission/clutch/primary forum, instead of the service manual method, and now my lever seems to go all the way to the grip and the clutch seems to work - it just doesn't feel as short and easy as when it was adjusted wrong.

The difference is that the "easy" way seems to work off of MY clutch, instead of standard factory specs and so it changes the amount I turn out the adjustment crew from the free/tension point.

 

Thank you and great responses from Hog Dr. Very informative and of professional.
I wont be attempting the clutch lever adjust just yet...But soon probably after a little more reading to instill confidence. Thanks again. Scoot Synergy at it's finest.

 

I'm a little confused by step 3 of the "Clutch Adjustment the easy way" method. What purpose does it serve to hold light tension on the lever and screw the adjuster in until it lifts the lever away from the grip....only to keep presure on it as you back the screw out until the lever nearly touches the grip again then another 1/2 turn before tightening the lock nut. What am I missing? It seems you are just undoing what you just did.

 

It just let's you feel the adjustment to know when contact is made with the adjuster, the pushrod, and throwout bearing. To much pressure on the throwout bearing will wear it out very quickly, which can lead to all sorts of other problems. Breaking down 100 miles from home, a bent shift shaft in my case. With to much pressure on the throwout bearing, excessive heat from the friction will destroy it.

 

I think you're misreading the instructions. You don't want the lever anywhere near the grip when setting the pushrod freeplay.
1 - collapse the cable adjuster all the way
2 - unlock the pushrod adjust screw and turn it in until the pressure plate starts to lift, then pull the lever back a few times to ensure the release mechanism is fully seated.
3 - turn the pushrod screw back out just until the pressure plate lands and pressure is released from the rod, then an extra half turn, lock it down
4 - extend the cable adjuster so there's some detectable slack in the cable, you can add slack to your taste.

 

No, I think I read it right.

"3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it."

I've always done it per the service manual and there are no instructions to touch the lever at any point. Except when setting the ball and ramp mechanism. I came across this thread because at the last adjustment I backed the adjuster screw out 1/2 turn from seat. Where as I used to have it at about 3/4 turn. Now, while the clutch doesn't seem to be slipping at all ( I still have good power and throttle response and the RPM's match the MPH i.e. at 75mph in 5th the rpm's are at 3k) BUT the clutch re-engages very close to full release where as it used to be at about 50-60% of release and my friction zone seems shorter. The cable is adjusted to where it usually is, maybe a hair less free play but I don't think enough to have moved the engagement point that far forward of the grip. Just trying to figure out if I should open it back up and back the adjuster out a hair more. Yes the adjustments were done while the bike was cold.

 

Little Mike... I went back and read the post you originally referenced, and honestly I've never heard of a clutch adjustment going that way. I think it assumes too much and is asking for trouble. I'd say stick to the book.
You can fudge the pushrod freeplay to tweak the feel of the clutch. by changing the amount of freeplay, a different part of the release mechanism is used, and depending on how the ramps are cut/worn, it may feel different.
If you like it better at 5/8 turn than at 3/8 then by all means, change it.
you can also add as much cable slack as you like so it releases/engages as
close to the grip as you like, as long as it releases enough to shift smoothly.

 

Thanks Doc,
It just seemed counter productive to me too but I have been known to miss the obvious on occasion. Thanks for the clarification. Like I said, it doesn't seem to be slipping at all or not fully disengaging but I'd like it to be closer to the grip. Think I'll give a turn or two the cable adjuster and see where she ends up.

 

great thread, I used this and the youtube post to get mine adjusted.

Thanks hogdoctor for all the help.

Here is the youtube link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zl92wwLiNwE&NR=1

 

ok i have a 11 road glide custom.. i was doing my 6k service .it felt great after following the book procedure for a couple short runs( less than 20 miles ).. well i got out on the road last night and rode about an hour (60 miles) and when i got into trafic my clutch was def slipping bad in first, second and somewhat in third like if i riped the throttle i could smell clutch.. im at a loss? where have i made a bad adjustment?

thanks in advance