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Old 05-22-2011, 02:56 PM
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Default Compensator Nut

Looking for a little quick help here. I have all the tools and the new torquing procedure, along with the telltale knocking. I have gone over her with a fine tooth and found nothing loose and I have adjusted the clutch so I'm down ot the comp. nut. It's an 04 EGC. here is my question, Do you have to pull everything out i.e. the clutch basket and remove the primary chain etc. or do you/can you simply pull the nut and clean the threads, apply the red loctite and re-torque per the new procedure? Any help and/or insight is GREATLY appreciated!
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Old 05-22-2011, 03:02 PM
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i checked mine once , i loosened the bolt cleaned the threads off and used some red loctite hasnt come loose yet
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Old 05-22-2011, 03:24 PM
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Cool, so it sounds pretty straight forward. Some of the threads I had read made it sound like you needed to pull everything out in order to remove, clean and re-torque the nut.
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Old 05-22-2011, 05:31 PM
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Bump, just looking for a consensus. Yeah, I know, not overly likely on a forum but I'll take a decent percentage if I can get one, lol.
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Old 05-22-2011, 06:19 PM
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I just did mine at 21k - just took off the rear shift pedal and the primary cover (not forgetting the 2 long bolts in the inspection cover).
Removed the nut, did the cleanup and locktite (fingernail polish), torqued to 160 lbs.
No more knocking.
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Old 05-22-2011, 07:43 PM
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I have done it more then a few times and never take the sprocket off. Just clean it real well with some brakeclean. I faced the nut about .030" as the early comp nuts were a tad too long. Or you can shim it that much but facing the nut is so easy. Never a problem after re-torquing.
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Old 05-22-2011, 07:43 PM
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I recommend you remove the primary chain tensioner.
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Old 05-22-2011, 08:50 PM
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Okay, I have it off and under normal circumstances it may have been considered tight but for a nut that was supposed to be torqued to 150 ft/lb it came loose easier than I thought it would. I didn't remove the tensioner but I did drop it to the bottom. Blkbagger may have answered my other question as to whether anyone who has done this shimmed or faced the nut or just reassembled it after cleaning.

BlkBagger, for facing it did you just use a grinder and take it down the .030?
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Old 05-22-2011, 08:53 PM
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I used a bench mounted sanding wheel and a set of calipers to measure. .030 is very little BTW. Some sand paper on a flat level surface will work just fine. Clean it well after.
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:30 PM
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Well that was fun! Nut is back in place. Mounted my grinder in the bench vise and got out my spark plug gap guage. The .030 is just about the little flair on the end of the nut. It must have been loose because getting it up to 150# (or 75# + 45 degrees) was much more difficult than getting it off. The stop block I made out of some exotic hardwood, that barely took a dent on removal, got pressed onto the clutch spocket. That little problem cost me a double divot out of a knuckle, lol. Cleaned it all up real good and checked to make sure the threads were still in tact, all was good! Now I'll wait the 24hrs for the loc-tite to cure and clean out the little tiny chips of wood that were created by getting the first block out of the sprocket. Then I'll button up the primary cover, put the fluid back in, and test her out. Thank you everyone for your help, as always HD Forum members answered the call. Thanks again!!!!!!
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:30 PM
 
 
 
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comensator, compensator, compensator nut, davidson, harley, loos, nut, problems, procedure, re-torque, remove, retorque, se, torque, torquing


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