Hello out there,
I am attempting to replace my stater on my 1992 Fatboy Custom. I've been successful in removing the clutch hub nut (1 3/16" reverse thread).

However, when I used the screw driver method to lock the compensater sprocket nut (1 1/2"), the screw driver was too small and broke one side of the chain. I've since cut a flat bar to 8 1/2" as a lock, but still cannot break it free. Thinking of using a torch to expand the metal.

I've been using a "cheater" bar for leverage, but am looking to verify that in order to remove the nut, it needs to be turned counter-clockwise. Can anyone (with experience) verify this.

I have the muscle, mechanical abilities and manual (which doesn't tell direction) and just don't want to break anything else.
Thanks for your experienced advise, Tazzzman

 

Counter clockwise is the correct direction, someone may have used too much locktite on the nut the last time it was assembled.

 

Thanks Dan, I have a buddy coming over to press the rear brake as my girl weighs a buck 20 and can't seem to press it down hard enough so the clutch hub moves slightly and my flat bar pops out. Back to the drawing board....thanks again, Tazzzman

 

Have someone tap the socket with a hammer while your pushing down on the cheeter bar

 

Thanks John, I had the same thing in mind.

 

Impact works good alot of people don't like to use them on the comp. just don't get stupid with it

 

Thanks to all that replied... after breaking and bending a screw driver, nearly my back and breaking my primary chain, I finally got the nut loose. Here is my confirmation (contrary to some of the things I read on this sight) that the compensator nut loosens counter clockwise and the clutch hub nut loosens clockwise.

You will need a 1 1/2" socket for the compensator nut and 1 3/16" socket for clutch hub nut, a "cheater" bar for leverage and primary chain locking tool. I made a flat bar used between sprockets and ordered the "stair case" tool (A MUST IN MY BOOK) It took the help of my buddy sit on the bike applying the rear brake HARD while bike is in 5th gear and the use of BOTH tools @ once to break the nut free. Do give the nut a couple "taps" with a hammer. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE INNER PRIMARY!!!

After loosening the nut, I was able to EASILY replace the stater and chain, adjust the clutch and re-install everything in 45 minutes. Torque comp. nut to 160 f/lb. and clutch nut to 70-80 f/lbs (use RED lock-tite, but NOT TOO MUCH).

At the end of the day, this job cost 12.45 for tool, 78.00 for replacement chain, 54.00 for stater and 8.00 for quart of Mobil One synthetic for a total cost of $152.45. (If you follow my method, you won't need the new chain that broke when I tried the "screw driver method")

All in all, this was a real pain to go through, all because the connection wires from the stater had erroded and corroded and the rubber sleave had turned to mush. However, I now could do it in my sleep. Again, thanks to all and I hope this will help anyone who doesn't have, or want to use an impact wrench. Good Luck. Ride Safe!

 

Unless your bike is a 1988 or earlier Softail (don`t know about other models).