ok.. just like cutting a inner whl brg race off a fwd car frt wheel hub.. you have to press the wheel hub out of the strg knuckle to replace the bearing. you're left with the whl brg in the knuckle and the outer inner race still on the flange hub.. i cut them on a angle about 3/4 of the way through and them pop them with a wide chisel and hammer.. they slide right off then..

thanks for your help.. much apprecieted..

 

No prob. I changed 3 OEM IPB's before I went with the one piece. Did one Baker and now been running the Napa equivilent for 20k. Good luck!

 

I would be careful about whacking the mainshaft. I know some do it but the proper way to remove the inner race is to use the proper puller to remove it. the mainshaft was not intended to be whacked with a hammer.

There is no quad seal and/or spacer on the later models. You should consider replacing the mainshaft seal, the mainshaft/5th gear seal, inner race, inner primary bearing/seal and the jackshaft seal. Parts 10, 13 and 14 from the transmission gears page; part 24 from the transmission housing page and parts 6 and 8 from the primary chain case page. Parts are cheap and you will kick yourself in the *** if you replace one part and still have a leak.

The Baker and All ***** one piece inner primary bearing is pretty popular but I have read about longevity problems on other H-D forums. I have replace a few inner races and bearings on early models and like the SnS tapered inner race; it won't walk. As usual, JMHO.

 

I agree about taking care and replacing all seals and have had good luck with the one piece bearing but the S&S bearing is news to me. Can you post a link. I like the fact that the one piece is cheep and always on the shelf at Napa if I need it.

 

If the OP is going to cut and break the IPB race, he should be careful not to knick the mainshaft with the cutting tool and he should support the mainshaft before he strikes it to break the bearing.

I have no personal experience with the one piece units but just prefer the OEM setup if using the SnS race; a personal preference but I know the one piece units are popular mainly because they are cheap and the install is easier. I have attached a link to the SnS piece.

http://www.sscycle.com/uploads/instructions/51-1233.pdf

 

As you are grinding when the metal almost gets to the shaft it will start to change colors wich means it is a few thousanths from the shaft. Once this happens it will expand and you can use the chisle to get a bite and drive it off the shaft. Not a lot off excess stress on the shaft or main bearing. It does take a little finess but even if you ground into the shaft a little it will be coverd by the bearing. Heat is the biggest issue if you are trying not to damage the seal. I have never changed the inner shaft seal in 106k. My background is in field heavy equipment repair so I dont always go by recomended r&r procedure but by personal experience. I say either way is correct.

 

Most that cut a notch into the OEM race don't drive the race off the shaft. The race is very brittle and once the notch is cut, a chisel bit wider than the notch, placed in the notch and whacked with a hammer, will break the race and it will fall off. I have done it but after doing it once decided I like the recommended R/R procedure better.

I understand that the damage caused by a knick in the shaft will be covered by the race. However, by removing just that bit of surface area could result in the race walking in to the mainshaft/5th gear seal; surface tension (interferenc fit) is what holds the race in place. I think sloppy factory tolerances are the reason why some inner races walk into the mainshaft/5th gear seal and some don't; apprently, yours was a good fit. I have replaced races on early models with less than 25K miles; the race walked in on the seal and caused the leak. Some don't recognize the race walking in and replace the inner primary seal only to find that they still have a leak.

We don't have a disagreement, although I would not whack on the mainshaft to drive the inner race off and do prefer the recommended R/R procedure but it's just a personal choice as not following the recommended R/R procedure is yours.

 

Agreed!

 

maybe whack is a poor choice of words, but a good solid firm hit and the race should split.. i can see people picturing in their mind someone with a 5lb mini sledge wailing away on the race.. not the case at all.. about like driving a nail into a piece of poplar wood. done it oodles of times in the cager field.. never a problem. if the mainshaft is nicked, it really shouldn't matter due to the fact that the inner race is now part of the bearing and there should be nothing to walk one way or the other.

 

Have at it and good luck; it's one of my least favorite Harley repairs.