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Chain Conversion Gearing

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Old 11-24-2012, 07:10 PM
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Default Chain Conversion Gearing

I would like to convert my bike to chain drive. I have a 2001 soft tail with a 96" S&S Engine. I am going to run a 530 chain. I was wondering how many teeth front and rear are recommended for my application. is there a standard conversion I can use to compare to the teeth on my belt set up? I am content with the gearing I have and would like to keep it as close as possible.

Thank You,

Earle
 
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:46 AM
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You can buy a chain conversion kit that will come with the correct sizes. However why do you want to change? I have an S&S 107" (not braggin'!) and my belt is fine, smoother, quieter than a chain and lower maintenance. There are members running much bigger engines with belts.
 
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:15 AM
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Without changing anything else (comp, clutch) using a 22 tooth front and 48 rear maintains the stock 3.15 ratio I believe the bike somes with.
A 23/48 combo yields a slightly taller 3.07. With that, you would need a speedometer correcting sensor, I use the Thunderheart, excellent.
I'd highly rocmmend EK chain, aBaker trans sprocket. Iused a 1/2" offset Baker and flat 48 tooth Drag.
my combo has 42000klms, chain needed adjustment for stretch twice, and just stays there. I use Maxim dry wax chain lube. I have an S&S 124 126hp trying to stretch it. fwiw Fastrider
 
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:09 PM
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thanks fastrider.

grbrown, After talking to the guy I purchased my bike from, he informed me that my engine is a 95" stage 3 twin cam and puts out around 128 hp to the rear wheel. My belt is properly adjusted and when I really hammer on it it skips. The bike only has 1500 miles on it (620 when I got it) and the belt is like new. My bike has a 200mm rear tire too.

How do I figure out what offset front sprocket to run in the front? Put a straight edge across the sprocket mounting surface on the wheel and measure the front? what do I measure to?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Earle
 
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Old 11-28-2012, 12:57 AM
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Why switch to something old and out dated? There is a reason they switched, belts are better.
 

Last edited by aquadave; 11-28-2012 at 01:03 AM.
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Old 11-28-2012, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by CrazyEarle
thanks fastrider.

grbrown, After talking to the guy I purchased my bike from, he informed me that my engine is a 95" stage 3 twin cam and puts out around 128 hp to the rear wheel. My belt is properly adjusted and when I really hammer on it it skips. The bike only has 1500 miles on it (620 when I got it) and the belt is like new. My bike has a 200mm rear tire too.

How do I figure out what offset front sprocket to run in the front? Put a straight edge across the sprocket mounting surface on the wheel and measure the front? what do I measure to?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Earle
There is not an easy answer to that! My modest knowledge of running wide tyres (I have a 160 in my 1990 Glide, on a Deuce wheel) is that installing a 200 requires quite a bit of effort! So the builder of your bike must know a thing or two about putting that combination together. He also spent some effort on that engine, as my S&S 107" gives 'only' 107HP!

Your bike is giving similar power to some of the 120R engines other HDF members are now running, so it is worth using Search for '120R', to see if any of them are having skipping problems like you are and what they have done to cure it.

As for offset for a set of sprockets, if your belt is running true, that provides a datum for setting up a chain. The centre-line of your belt becomes the centre-line of your chain, which should help you work out offset for both front and rear sprockets. Do talk to a chain kit supplier, so they can help you get the right set-up.
 
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Old 11-28-2012, 10:07 AM
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Two things, first your ratio count the teeth on the rear pulley and divide that number by the tooth count of your front pulley that is your ratio. Second your offset, worry about your rear sprocket first find one with the proper tooth count to match your ratio and that will fit in your swing arm configuration. Once you have done this run a straight edge from the rear sprocket forward to the trans, measure from the inboard side of the straight edge to the transmission face. Call me, give me with that measurement and I'll set you up with the proper offset transmission sprocket. 1-877-640-2004
 
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Old 06-01-2013, 08:22 AM
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Default Still Skiping

so I replaced the belt with a EK-zzz chain and it did not get rid of the "skipping" I thought was the belt skipping.

Any ideas what it could be?

It is a 95" twin cam S&S stage three engine. It was built in 2000 and only has 1700 miles. It is running a Primo Brute 3 primary belt and clutch. When I get on it hard it skipps rather violently.

Could the primary belt be skipping?

I figured it was manufactured in probably 1997-1998 to make its way into an engine built in 1999... thats an old belt and it was improperly set up and one side is fraying. I am going to replace the belt anyway but I would never think this would skip.

Any ideas/ help would be greatly appreciated...

Earle
 
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