Guys,

I am having a helluva time here trying to remove the 6 bolts on a Barnett Pressure plate in my 03 EG. Anyone here have any insight on red loctite'd bolts on the pressure plate?

I have to pull the clutch pack to get the primary chain off and got to change the clutch anyway. Apparently the prev owner used a whole tube of Red Loctite on those 6 allen bolts, because they are NOT budging! I have tried a micro-torch, tried a bernz-o-matic torch rotating between each bolt 10-secs on each bolt for 3-5 mins. They will not move. Started to round the allen out of two. Tried an impact driver with and without heat applied.How much heat can I give those bolts to cook that Loctite?

I am getting frantic here, last resort I see is to grind the heads off and change the hub, but that's an extra expense I can't swing right now.

Anyone here have any insight on red loctite'd bolts on the pressure plate?

 

The installer swears he used Blue Loctite and Barnett tech has nothing for me other than try to heat or grind the heads off and try vise grips on the rest, risking damaging the hub......

I did find this from the Loctite website........ http://www.loctite.com.au/3286_AUS_HTML.htm

Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?
A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface.

 

Wow..................crickets in here!

Does anyone work on their own stuff anymore or do they all trade up when the warranties run out?

 

I think you are on the right track .... if they used red, heat is all that I know of to soften the loctite enough to break it loose. I would heat one at a time and try with an impact screwdriver. Not sure what kind of impact wrench you tried (air driven impact is probrably too much for a screw), but I would recommend the screwdriver type that you hit with a hammer while trying to loosen with your other hand. I've always been able to get a screw-head (phillips/allen) fastener loose with this impact .... the hammer keeps the bit engaged on the screw head while uncoiling the spring inside. Appoligize if this is what you have and already tried. If not, here is a pic of an impact screwdriver .... Harbor Freight sells them cheap if your near one. Best of luck.

 

Yeah, I'd try this before cutting the heads off. The other trick is to use a long metal punch and hit an edge. The punch digs into the material and torque is applied. The down side is that it ruins the head.

 

Thanks for the replies.....I did conquer the iceberg last night. Yes, I have my Dad's trusty Mac Impact Driver that is as old as me. I just wasn't getting enough heat down the 1-inch long bolt. So After I rounded the first Allen out, I had a secondary plan in place. I used a center punch in the Allen head and then used a 1/8" drill bit to drill down 1/2" in the center of the bolt to get heat into the bolt. then used a 5/32 very slowly and very carefully to get more heat into it. A 5/32 is almost the dia as the bolt shaft, so there were one or two spots that the threads are still on the bolt, but you can see thru the bolt because the drill came thru the bottom grooves of the thread! Very risky but I decided I was in NO hurry!.....Then, took a 1/4 Allen impact socket and beat it into each stripped Allen head and turned them out with a stubby ratchet. Just had to calm down and go slow....Allen heads will NOT be going back in there! After that, it was smooth sailing!

Now it's on to the Cycle Electric 50A-3ph conversion and the Alto Carbonite Clutch install!

 

Taught and old dog a new trick, never thought of drilling a "heat hole" in the bolt. I've drilled a lot of heads off, and then screwed the remainder out with heat on the exposed shaft and vise grips. Might not have been loctite entirely; put too much torque on bolts, and the threads stretch and seize in there.

 

Just go slow.....and start with a little whole in case you let the drill drift. There would have not been enough meat to grip too had I ground or drilled the heads off. Just be sure to use a transfer punch to get the pilot mark from the punch completely centered.

A transfer punch set is a handy thing to have!
http://www.harborfreight.com/28-piec...-set-3577.html

 

Cool trick, yea lots of heat, prop the torch up sit down and relax for two three min.
The button heads are the worse, is there room for hex?

 

There should be room for a hex, otherwise I am pre-drilling a new set of button heads with pilot holes in my drill press! The Barnett bolts are M6x1.0-20mm and the factory bolts are M6x1.0-17mm so I am going to go back to the factory shouldered bolts and clay them against the derby cover and see what kind of clearance I have.....

I think I am going to do a writeup I think on this as a Cycle Electric 50A Charging install and a Scorpion Billet Pressure plate conversion.