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Changing Out Tranny Pan '07 SG

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Old 11-17-2013, 05:21 PM
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Default Changing Out Tranny Pan '07 SG

Buddy ended up completely messing up his bolt hole when changing fluids. He is bringing bike over tomorrow to change out the pan.

Couple of things

Just confirm the rear wheel has to come off to get the pan out?

Need torque specs for tightening rear axle.

Need torque specs for rear caliber assembly.

Anything else I need to be aware of…and yeah I know he should have the manual but does not. My knowledge of bikes extends from Pans to Evos, but I come up short on the the newer models.


Thanks in advance

Dave
 
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Old 11-19-2013, 06:35 AM
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I read only recently that the pan can be changed without doing so, but removing the rear wheel makes access a lot easier. I haven't actually done it myself!

Axle nut torque is 95-105 lb.ft. and the rear caliper stays in one piece, no need to dismantle it. It doesn't come off in the same way as the front ones.
 
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Old 11-19-2013, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by panz4ever
Buddy ended up completely messing up his bolt hole when changing fluids. He is bringing bike over tomorrow to change out the pan.

Couple of things

Just confirm the rear wheel has to come off to get the pan out?

Need torque specs for tightening rear axle.

Need torque specs for rear caliber assembly.

Anything else I need to be aware of…and yeah I know he should have the manual but does not. My knowledge of bikes extends from Pans to Evos, but I come up short on the the newer models.


Thanks in advance

Dave


If you don't have a service manual you should be able to do a web search to find all the specs you need. I'd recommend getting a manual anyway.
I changed out my stock oil pan to a Baker +1.5. The Baker pan is a very tight fit so I needed to pull the axle out and move my wheel back a bit. I'd recommend to just bite the bullet and pull out the axle so the wheel can be moved back a couple of inches. Especially if you need to repair some stripped threads you'll need the room to work in.
This isn't a big deal. Just mark your adjusters so you can bring your wheel back to where it was. Then your alignment and belt tension should be the same as before.
Of course it was made a lot easier for me since I got the Handy Lift last year. I should have done that a long time ago. I'm gettin' too fuggin' old to be hunched over and laying on the floor trying to see what I'm doing in crappy lighting with limited space to work in.
 
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Old 11-20-2013, 05:01 PM
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Well got it changed out yesterday. Had to remove rear wheel; once that was done it slipped in and out with ease. About the only glitch was getting the axle nut free. Was extremely tight on there. And of course I did not have a 36mm socket (ordered one though) to get it off so it took a cresent and pipe on the end to get the needed leverage.

Rear axle is about as thick as baseball bat and is definitely an improvement over the ones on my pans and shovel.

grbrown, thanks for the heads up on the caliper; left it in place as you noted.

Ozzie that is a serious looking pan you have there. What does adding a pan like that do as far as improvement to your bike if I may ask. definitely looks bulletproof at any rate.

Getting wheel back on and aligned was real simple. There are plates on each side that have marks on them. The axle is flat on one pertion and plates are notched so that the plates only go on the axle one way. Then it is just a matter of rotating the axle to align them with a raised notch on each side of the swing arm and tighten down. Another big improvement over the pan/shovel/evo rear axle adjusters.
 

Last edited by panz4ever; 11-20-2013 at 05:03 PM.
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