im pretty sure ive burned up my clutch on my 2013 iron 883. Im pretty sure it was from lack of maintenance which will no longer be an issue after I get the bike running again haha. Anyways I was riding home the other day with my lady on the back and I stopped and pulled the clutch in and I could feel it pulling forward like I was still in gear. I got home as quickly as I could and adjusted it took it for a short test ride and it seemed to be alright at the time. the next day on my way to work the same thing happened so I attempted to adjust it again but, sadly I figured I was to late. while I was going home that night is when it all turned for the worst. no response from the clutch and it felt like the friction pads possibly had lateral run out. I could feel the clutch alternating between grabbing and slipping. So here ion the very near future I am going to purchase the screaming eagle performance clutch kit. http://www.harley-davidson.com/store...nce-clutch-kit

I was wondering if this is the best option? I am 20 years old and work in the automotive industry and am very mechanically inclined I also have a Clymer manual for my bike, so the replacing it isn't the issue. Im having issues finding information on what sort of specialty tools, misc. tools, hardware Ex. gaskets, washers, compounds, fluids I will need to purchase to do the replacement. Im just trying to get this done right the first time my bike is my only mode of transportation so im in a sticky situation right now. Any feedback would greatly appreciated! Just let me know if there is a better product out there or if im going in the right direction. thanks.

 

i am no expert in clutches but it seems to me that the main problem when clutches go out is not holding or the clutch slipping

have you adjusted it at the clutch then at the cable? 2 seperate adjustments

if you do replace the clutch there is not really anything needed for specialty tools other than something to lock the primary, but that can easiliy be improvised

the best 60 bucks i have spent on my hd is the 6o i spent on the HD service manual. it is alot better than the clymer manual and worth the money

 

Fluid service, clutch adjustment and driving habits are the sole factors in clutch life. Im at 128k on my original friction plates and they still look like new. Nothing wrong with the OEM stuff. A stronger pressure plate is a good thing if you have the hand strength for it.

 

Drain your primary fluid and if it's full of brass glitter then your spring plate is blown... it's in the middle of your clutch pack and held together by brass rivets, which fail. Odds are your clutch basket is trashed as well.

Replace the clutch pack with an extra plate kit, the basket might be salvageable if the gouges are not too deep.

You'll be needing a clutch spring compressor tool to get it apart... buy one or make one.

 

Why the hell would there be brass rivets in a stress plate in a clutch. That doesn't look like a good idea.

 

It's not, that's why any sportster owner 'in the know' yanks that POS out and replaces with a couple steels and a friction plate (aka extra plate kit) It's a ticking time bomb.

 

Kinda like the old Ford 2 piece flywheel. Im not up on sporties but sounds like a bad design. Shame cause they are a well built bike.

 

BTs use the same clutch pack, but I don't think they use the spring plate... which is just a damper to increase the friction zone a bit. Totally pointless/useless, and was the first thing I pulled when I bought my bike. It is definitely one of the weak points in this model... and they've been using this since the late '90's I believe, though it's only been a chronic issue with the 2004 and newer rubbermount models.

 

Non-scientific poll on XLF showed about 33% respondents experienced spring plate failure.

 

If you desperately need that spring plate mine is as new, I pulled it out as precaution, you can have it for shipping cost.