2006 Street Bob getting into the primary and tinkering around
#1
2006 Street Bob getting into the primary and tinkering around
I believe my stator has gone bad.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=981186
I get continuity on all three pins coming from the stator and to ground. SOoo, I am reluctantly going to get into the primary and inner primary to give it a looksy/replacement.
I feel some what ok about taking on this repair, however I do have some concerns. I don't want to get in side and REALLY do more damage than good. Additionally, while I am in there is there anything I should be checking or even replacing to avoid future repairs? I have seen people with the same year bike as mine talking about it being a good idea to carefully inspect the double bearing for the transmission mainshaft. They are known to fail. The plastic carrier breaks down and makes a huge headache. (the noob in me says, "Plastic carrier? WTF is that and how do I inspect / replace it?.") I also see people replacing the 30 tooth pulley...why?
Just trying to do some preliminary research, while I save up some $$$ for parts, before I dive into this.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=981186
I get continuity on all three pins coming from the stator and to ground. SOoo, I am reluctantly going to get into the primary and inner primary to give it a looksy/replacement.
I feel some what ok about taking on this repair, however I do have some concerns. I don't want to get in side and REALLY do more damage than good. Additionally, while I am in there is there anything I should be checking or even replacing to avoid future repairs? I have seen people with the same year bike as mine talking about it being a good idea to carefully inspect the double bearing for the transmission mainshaft. They are known to fail. The plastic carrier breaks down and makes a huge headache. (the noob in me says, "Plastic carrier? WTF is that and how do I inspect / replace it?.") I also see people replacing the 30 tooth pulley...why?
Just trying to do some preliminary research, while I save up some $$$ for parts, before I dive into this.
Last edited by OldManBakke; 07-19-2014 at 12:41 PM.
#2
Start by confirming if you have a problem and identifying what the cause is! There are two Stickies in this Tech Electrical section with guidelines on testing your charging system. If your stator is in need of replacement, you will have to remove the clutch and compensator. which can only be done together. If you don't have one, I recommend you get a factory service manual, which will describe what is involved. It probably also has a trouble-shooting section, which will help you identify any problems you have.
#3
Got the manual. Have seen a stick on testing the charging system. I do get continuity from the stator to ground so I am fairly confident its bad. However, the regulator I am unsure of. When I use a test light to see if there is any voltage leak through the regulator I get no light...not even the slightest. But when I use a volt meter I get almost 10v showing...so I am unsure.
I have also see some tutorials on removing the compensator without having to remove the clutch basket...but then again I hear people saying that is not possible.
I have also see some tutorials on removing the compensator without having to remove the clutch basket...but then again I hear people saying that is not possible.
#4
Use these two stickies. You will need a multimeter.
charging-system-testing-1
charge-system-testing-2
The compensator cannot be removed without also removing the clutch, as the chain is a single unit, which cannot easily be broken.
charging-system-testing-1
charge-system-testing-2
The compensator cannot be removed without also removing the clutch, as the chain is a single unit, which cannot easily be broken.
#5
Yeah used both those sticky's...thanks though for the links. Sometimes its hard to locate that stuff. I also have a Fluke T5-1000 meter I have been using. Everything I read says if I get continuity from the plug from the stator to a good ground then it need to be replaced. Which is what I am getting....
#7
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#9
You definitely want to remove the compensator sprocket, clutch assembly and primary chain at the same time.
Don`t bother trying to remove just the compensator, the chain would need to be worn quite a bit for you to be successful removing it, and you might never get it back on that way, even if you got it off.
Be aware about the stepped locking tool they used in that video, on some model bikes the factory says they are not to be used.
A locking bar is your best bet.
A highly regarded aftermarket source for stators for Harleys is Cycle Electric.
Don`t bother trying to remove just the compensator, the chain would need to be worn quite a bit for you to be successful removing it, and you might never get it back on that way, even if you got it off.
Be aware about the stepped locking tool they used in that video, on some model bikes the factory says they are not to be used.
A locking bar is your best bet.
A highly regarded aftermarket source for stators for Harleys is Cycle Electric.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; 07-20-2014 at 10:04 PM.