Been doing more cone work and slipping the clutch.


Was told by a Police Competitor to adjust the clutch a full turn out to avoid damaging the clutch/friction plates.


It seems counterintuitive to me, because by adjusting the rod a full turn out, you get LESS separation of the friction discs when you pull in the clutch lever.


Can anyone help me understand how adjusting a full turn out is better for competitions and slipping the clutch?


Do you maybe have to make up for this when you adjust the cable?

 

Been adjusting to the 3/4 turn to 1 turn. It makes sure that you have to be more deliberate with your clutch lever to disengage the clutch. When you cover the clutch lever you will put some pressure on the lever, no matter how careful you think you are not to, you will. This helps keep the clutch totally engaged and not slipping until you squeeze the lever on purpose. I always adjust to the "looser" side to make sure the clutch is engaged and not slipping due to my hand covering the lever.

 

Also when you adjust your clutch do it when the engine is cold with the cable adjuster all the way slacked. Adjust cable after adjusting the clutch basket

 

Makes sense, do you ever have problems with hard shifting or trouble finding neutral when you adjust a full turn out?

 

Do it cold. That way 3/4 turn is more then enough to compensate for heat. Then make sure the cable play is to the minimum checked at lock to lock of the bars to find this minimum. The most important key is to not put too much play in cable when adjusting back off at the clutch. You need to screw in adjustment 2 turns past no clearance to deburr thread. Then lever the clutch lever as you screw the back off while adjusting till you fine the exact no play. This will make sense to you if as you back off and screw back in, you will fill it stop, lever and you will fill no play, then back off a little and lever and you can tell the free play. That way, you will be sure of where you start. Then do your 1/2-1 turn out. (3/4 works for me and it has not changed in 40K) I had to go into primary while back and since it was apart I measured and inspected all. The clutch disks and metal plates had so little wear, it was actually unmeasurable with my 0-1 micrometer. My clutch is so smooth, I push the bike back out of my garage holding in the clutch to break the oil film and start in gear with just a slight tug. Set like this and with the oil level correct (not amount) neutral is easy but mine is a 5 speed.

 

Never had a problem w hard shifting and never had an issue finding neutral. My main concern is, I want a solid clutch hook up. I run my cable to the loose side too. But thats me and how I like my set up. 08 FLHX, stock clutch pack, 340lb Aim spring and a 92VPC with an Aim billet pressure plate are my hard parts.

 

qt, you must have big strong hands. I keep my cable with just enough slack that you know that it is not holding in clutch and also not spinning throwout bearing. In this way, as soon as lever is about 1/2" off bar, clutch is grabbing. I do not have the hand strength or control to have it grabbing way out near the end. Most of my driving is city driving with a zillion red lights.

 

I think we are saying the same thing, at least I think we are. Lever just off the grip and bike starts to move, right? The opposite would be just barely pulling the lever in and the clutch starts to slip, right? The latter scenario is what I avoid.