Umm, yea sure. Screaming Eagle is synthetic oil too. Lotsa bikes have run tons of miles on Amsoil and SE syn 3.

 

I feel the need to explain myself on oil before i get negative feedback. so here goes. first mineral oil or petrolum oil is a hydrocarbon product that all oils base stock starts from, it is created by fractional distillation (crack process) creating products like petroulum either, gas, naptha, kerosene, diesel, parafin wax, coke, asfault ect.. it is taken from their and uses what manufactures call their additive package, like viscosity inprovers (co-polyers) that help add film strenth and maintain a fluid bearing between 2 opposing loads, detergents that clean and prevent sludge and varnish build up, anti oxidants that help add temp range to the product and helps prevent oil mixing with hydrcarbons causing oxidation, ep additives (extreme pressure) like phousous, tugmtum, sulfer ect... these are considered chemical lubricants (some spelling maybe wrong this is off the top of my head) viscosity inprovers to help cotrol with the heat range, harley oil has a additve package (alot of things above) that helps maintain a hydromanic film to maintain oil on roller bearings, harleys need to run a min. of 212 oil temp to keep condensation out of it. (milky) harley oil also maintains a flashpoint of over 600 deg, also the pour point and drop point are designed for the heat range of harleys. all oil is graded by sae, astm, api, mil specs using prefix's like sg, se, cc, cd ect... the s is for spark engine and the 2nd sufix is for compression levels, by the way you cant mix detergent and non detergent oils. what alot of automotive style oils like amsoil, ect,, use to run cooler and shift better is molyboenum (moly) the slickest substance know in this industry, the problem is its so slick the bearing slide instead of rolling causing premature failure. this works great on automotive style plain or babbit bearing engines that likes little fricton. after 3 hours of amsoil rep trying to get me to sell his product and showing me the demo he finally broke loose and told me that this is how he was taught to sell amsoil, and i was one of the very few people who knew how oil worked, he also told me amsoil did not carry the same additive package hd carries and they didnt know what harley had in their oil and it just met the latest grade level on the market. he also didnt know harley had roller bearings in the engine and could i give him one of my premature crankpins that wore out with automotive oil so he can show his boss's. i told him to buy a new ultra and go 75k miles with amsoil and he would have one. by the way i have over 260k miles on regular hd petroulum oil on my shovelhead without a rebuild. also for the synthetic users (h-d) basically after the petrotulm base stock they use man made molucules to call it sythetic in labatory studies under a microscppe shows slightly less wear and burns slightly cleaner, sny 3 runs the same additive package as the petroulum. hope i didnt **** of anyone, this subject need addressed and the oil manufactures will tell you anything to sell their product. i use hd oil because it was tested and designed for it. (tested and certified h-d 360) can go 360 hours befour it begins to break down. have a wonderfull riding day.

 

Amsoil MCV has no moly content and I can't find any proof that HD oil has a flash point of 600 degrees f. Oil does not cause bearings to wear , cheap bearings are what cause them to wear. It's an old, old myth.

 

Unless you have UOA's for all those engine failures proving the oil was to blame..your recommendation against any oil other than HD is baseless!

HD 360 can go 360 hours before it starts to break down? That means you can only ride 15 days at 24 hours a day before the oil starts to break down? Please show me that white paper/UOA which can prove your statement...

Flash Point C/F (ASTM D-92):

Amsoil MCV 20w-50 240 (464)
Schaffers 7000 20w-50 204.56 (465)
" 9000 5w-50 226.67 (440)


You may want to read this, and no Amsoil was not tops in all the tests>>>>

https://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

 

its your bike run it if you like, and figure it out for yourself, also look on the h-d oil bottle and see the little hd 360 and ask a dealer what it means. you can search the internet all you want and get a million opinions including mine, keep in mind anyone selling a product will not say anything bad about it , it just want sell that way, they are like polticians they will tell you anything to get your vote, and dont get me wrong amsoil and other brands are not bad oils, they are just bad for roller bearing engine's, have amsoil show you the bearing test they do and tell me how slick it is. im not here to arque with you, i was stating some fact's so riders will have a professional clue on what is truely going on with the products. also in reality this wont affect most people very few ride massive miles anymore. have a great day

 

Ok, so i just bought a used 05 FLHRS with geared cams, got the reciept, also have all the reciepts from all the oil changes. this guy only used amsoil in everything. but i have now bought the prepaid maintenance from my HD dealer for the next 2 years. what do they use? they carry Amsoil, but I would guess i would have to pay the difference if i requested that. bike has only 28.5K miles on it. Hey Heath...my name is also Heath, just sayin'...

 

I have just switched to Amsoil, the bike had Casterol synth in from what I can gather, seems to be running a lot better with the Amsoil.

 

I want an Amsoil coupon.

 

I just did the 2nd oil change on my 09 Ultra which had 5500 miles on the oil. The transmission oil seriously looked like it just came out of the bottle so I didn't change it. The engine oil was a little discolored but still pretty clear, not a bit of metal on the magnet. If the rollers were sliding instead of rolling, the Amsoil must be so slick that they're not wearing at all! If it wears out an engine at 75K miles there should be noticeable metal on the magnet IMO.

Also I had used the Amsoil filter which is better than OEM filters as they use synthetic fiber instead of cellulose. It filters to a lower micron yet gives you less restriction thus more oil flow which should help keep pressure higher at high temps while idling, look it up.

This weekend just did all three in my new 12 Ultra Limited. All three magnets had metal buildup on them which I sort of expected since it was the 1000 mile break in period. The chain case oil was black but is the first time I've ever change it myself.

BTW I believe in Amsoil so much I sell it and have for years. I'm in the Upstate area of SC near Greenville. Out of stock for the 20W50 now but I have 10W40 on the shelf and filters.

 

I have been running this oil since day one on my 2004 EG 40,000 miles and counting.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/aro.aspx?zo=401037