We really tried to stick to the byways for most of the trip from Denver on with the exception of a day long slab from Sturgis back home to Milwaukee. It made for a very pleasant trip. Sure, we went a little slower, but that made it somewhat less punishing. Also, one gets to see so many things that are missed when riding the interstate. Factor in less traffic, semi trucks, and road construction, and it all makes for a much more pleasant trip. To me ten hours on the slab is hell and twelve hours of byways is heaven.
Onward.
We finally got passed the line of cars and the two semi trucks. There were actually plenty of passing zones, but only we seemed interested in using them. Once past the rolling roadblock, the road was free of traffic for miles. After all, there are really no intersections for cars to funnel onto the road. The silver lining. We had the road to ourselves for about thirty minutes.
One can only post so many pictures of the Rockies before they all start to look alike. I think you get the idea - a ride through the Rockies will be beautiful. My advice is to try and plan it mid week. But, as mentioned, trucks use some of the routes we like to travel and they can really harsh on your ride. Also, I won't bore you with shots of Durango, and, I must say, the main drag was not especially noteworthy. As the couple back in Montrose had mentioned, there is a lot of traffic. We did not encounter the homicidal drivers that we were told we would be there (that came later) and I'm sure there are parts of Durango that are fantastic. However, we had ground to cover so finding those areas were not on the menu. The main thing I remember about Durango is that the aprons to the gas stations are incredibly steep and I wondered how cars managed to keep their bumpers.
Heading west out of Durango we rode past Mesa Verde National Park and into Ute Mountain Indian Reservation territory. The mountains of the Rockies gave way to the high desert and mesas to the south.
The high desert has it's own kind of beauty. It's not for everyone, but I like it. Being from Wisconsin I'm used to lush green rolling hills and fields of corn or wheat. That I can live with on a daily basis. I'm not so sure I could say the same about the desert. I'm also used to humidity, which is not at all present west of Durango. I felt like a sponge that had been left to dry in the sun. No amount of lotion or sunblock seemed to help and water/Gator-aide was consumed in quantities to stave off dehydration which happened anyway. It was in the upper nineties at least. The Ultra's thermometer indicated something closer to 110 degrees, but the hot motor might influence that reading. Cheryl adopts her "Sand People" garb. Me - I'm content to bake in the sun. I'm somewhere near medium well at this point.
It had been a very long day. Denver. The Rockies. The Million Dollar Highway, and lots of desert heat. Home seemed like a million miles away and a memory from the past even though it had only been three days. We had crossed out of Colorado and into Utah as well as the Navajo Nation. It was with great relief that our destination grew closer. We were, loving every minute of the ride, but after hours and a lot of exposure, we were getting tired.
To the right Moab. To the left Mexican Hat.
Even though we're tired, we still appreciate the beauty that surrounds us.
Some of you are probably wondering - Why Mexican Hat as a stop over? I can’t really say. Basically, it sounded cool and the mileage worked out. Yeah, it's named after a rather unimpressive rock formation along the highway, but I guess when you have a whole lot of nothing, you choose a name based on what you do have. And it worked on me. And another reason to stop there is it is gateway to Monument Valley, which we would travel through the next day.
We arrived around 7:30 at night (the Garmin is on central time in the pic above). We were hot, tired, and hungry. Needless to say, the first thing we did, even before checking in to our hotel, was to gas up. No, not because I'm so interested in a quick morning getaway (I just didn't care at that point). It was to get a nice, cold, dewy 6 pack of whatever the hell beer they sold in that God forsaken place. Yes, after 13+ hours of mountains and desert heat, this place was God forsaken! Dry! Hot! In the middle of nowhere, one horse (gas station anyway), 2 bar town!
Fast forward 15 minutes - we have checked into the Hardrock Inn in Mexican Hat, UT. The staff was nice, the room clean, and most importantly, it had A/C and a fridge. OK. Equally important was running water. The colder the better. The first beer was opened.
Fast forward another 15 minutes - After having a shower and a beer (yes - at the same time) life is good. The ride was great, we were on schedule (a loose vacation type schedule anyway), we were not fighting ( As long as she did what she was told!..... ), the bike is great, and I have 5 more beers. Of course, Cheryl had something to say about that and she claimed her fair share you can be sure. While she took advantage of running water (yeah - after me. She was molesting the air conditioner while I showered - her choice), I took a stroll out to the porch. The sun was low, and the temps falling. I'm sure you all know the satisfaction of feeling refreshed and taking that short stroll to survey your surroundings after a long day in the saddle. Beer (or refreshing beverage of your choice) in hand, the smell of the summer air mixed with the feint scent of clean hair and clean clothes. And if you are really fortunate, a damn fine cigar in your other hand. I was not that fortunate. However, I did fully appreciate the beauty, serenity, smells, and tastes of my current situation.
The view
It wasn't long before beer was not enough, however. Food was needed. There seemed to be two choices - a very crowded outdoor steak joint, and the gas station. We walked a few hundred feet up the road to the restaurant. Not too much traffic except for some late travelers and a pick up truck full of hooting local dudes. "Hey! Nice ***! Whooooooooh!" Not that I didn't appreciate their whistles and high praise of my ***, but it kinda pissed Cheryl off. Jealous I guess. Anyways, we put in our names at a place that boasts that they cook their steaks on a swing. We were told there would be a 15 minute wait - not bad. We saddled up at the bar and had another cold one while watching the "swinging steak" show which consisted of pony-tailed old guy watching steaks that were placed on a swing that goes rapidly back and forth over an open pit, much like a child at a playground, but with fire. Now, I have grilled a steak or two. In my experience, when I place a steak directly over a hot fire, it takes about 15 minutes to cook, give or take. We did the math on this process and figured that it would take about 3 days to actually cook a steak using the “swing” method. We finished our beers while watching the same steaks not cook on the swing. Beer cans empty, we opted for plan B - gas station burrito. I know that sounds like a let down after "swinging steaks", but all I can tell you is that as hungry as we were, it was the best green chili frozen burrito I have ever had. We killed off what remained of the 6 pack and turned in by 10 PM. It was a great day.
Roads traveled – From Denver, heading west and south – Hwy 285 to Poncha Springs, Hwy 50 west to Montrose, Hwy 550 south, over the Million Dolar Highway, to Durango, Hwy 160 west to Hwy 41 (middle of nowhere), which turns into Hwy 162 west (ish), Pick up Hwy 191/163 at Mulberry (didn’t see anything but an intersection and stop sign – it is pictured above), and then rolled 163 into Mexican Hat.
Miles Traveled - 516
Time Traveled - about 13.5 hours
Temps - 55f-105f estimated
Beers Consumed - 5 each
Burritos Consumed - 1/2 each
Our route for Day 4 - Mexican Hat to Vegas! (you can't just put a period after the word "Vegas") via Monument Valley and the Grand Canyon
08-30-2011, 10:10 PM
), the bike is great, and I have 5 more beers. Of course, Cheryl had something to say about that and she claimed her fair share you can be sure. While she took advantage of running water (yeah - after me. She was molesting the air conditioner while I showered - her choice), I took a stroll out to the porch. The sun was low, and the temps falling. I'm sure you all know the satisfaction of feeling refreshed and taking that short stroll to survey your surroundings after a long day in the saddle. Beer (or refreshing beverage of your choice) in hand, the smell of the summer air mixed with the feint scent of clean hair and clean clothes. And if you are really fortunate, a damn fine cigar in your other hand. I was not that fortunate. However, I did fully appreciate the beauty, serenity, smells, and tastes of my current situation.
