noisy 110
#2
Welcome to the club.
Many folks complain about valve train or top end noise on their 103 and 110 engines. Especially if they have changed the cam.
There is a following to the theory that it is the valve springs being too stiff. Others blame the cam profile.
And the inferior lifter crowd has their theory.
Still others think it may be an oil issue. Running a good 20w50 or ?w60 seems to help for a few thousand miles. Mobil1 and Amsoil seem to be nosier than other brands.
But for the most part, it is annoying and harmless.
If you have not done so, it might be wise to replace the lifters and inner cam bearings as a preventative measure. S&S Premium lifters, or those from GMR Performance seem to have a good reliability reputation.
If you are going to have a lot of work done, have the valve springs replaced.
If you want to just ride it and maintain your factory warranty or ESP, then do that and perhaps wear ear plugs to calm the Evil Spirits that live in your valve train..
If I get another 110, I'll leave the 255 cam in, change the headers and mufflers and have it dynoed. I ride mostly under 3500 rpm.
Many folks complain about valve train or top end noise on their 103 and 110 engines. Especially if they have changed the cam.
There is a following to the theory that it is the valve springs being too stiff. Others blame the cam profile.
And the inferior lifter crowd has their theory.
Still others think it may be an oil issue. Running a good 20w50 or ?w60 seems to help for a few thousand miles. Mobil1 and Amsoil seem to be nosier than other brands.
But for the most part, it is annoying and harmless.
If you have not done so, it might be wise to replace the lifters and inner cam bearings as a preventative measure. S&S Premium lifters, or those from GMR Performance seem to have a good reliability reputation.
If you are going to have a lot of work done, have the valve springs replaced.
If you want to just ride it and maintain your factory warranty or ESP, then do that and perhaps wear ear plugs to calm the Evil Spirits that live in your valve train..
If I get another 110, I'll leave the 255 cam in, change the headers and mufflers and have it dynoed. I ride mostly under 3500 rpm.
#5
I have the same bike except I got the red one. 2nd CVO for me. Agree that the top end is noisy, but has been harmless.
1st one I had I changed the cam, heads milled and ported with racing springs, changed cam bearins, on and on. No difference, still noisy top end. Guys on harley tech talk have a lot of theories on the noise.
1st one I had I changed the cam, heads milled and ported with racing springs, changed cam bearins, on and on. No difference, still noisy top end. Guys on harley tech talk have a lot of theories on the noise.
#6
I've taken mine in for service twice, and both times I have complained about an engine noise, to no avail.
The last time I was told that they believe it is a condition called "frosting" on the lifters and H-D says not to warranty the problem because a new set of lifters may develop the same problem.
I'm used to the "ticking" tappet noise, but my concern is over another noise (sometimes) at about 2900 RPM's under, light-to-moderate acceleration, that sounds a bit like a lifter collapsing.
The noise goes away over 3,000 RPM's, and of course I can't hear it under heavy, hard acceleration, or even at 2900 RPM's when I'm on the highway.
My bike is a '13 with under 18,000 miles on it and I also have the ESP, so I'm going start driving it like I stole it and see where that goes.
As on person has already said, "welcome to the club".
The last time I was told that they believe it is a condition called "frosting" on the lifters and H-D says not to warranty the problem because a new set of lifters may develop the same problem.
I'm used to the "ticking" tappet noise, but my concern is over another noise (sometimes) at about 2900 RPM's under, light-to-moderate acceleration, that sounds a bit like a lifter collapsing.
The noise goes away over 3,000 RPM's, and of course I can't hear it under heavy, hard acceleration, or even at 2900 RPM's when I'm on the highway.
My bike is a '13 with under 18,000 miles on it and I also have the ESP, so I'm going start driving it like I stole it and see where that goes.
As on person has already said, "welcome to the club".
#7
Yes, that noise that is rpm dependent, different on some bikes, but seems to be in all the bikes at 2800-3000 or so.
Perhaps it's just mechanical harmonics.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanical_resonance
Perhaps it's just mechanical harmonics.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanical_resonance
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#8
Yes, that noise that is rpm dependent, different on some bikes, but seems to be in all the bikes at 2800-3000 or so.
Perhaps it's just mechanical harmonics.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanical_resonance
Perhaps it's just mechanical harmonics.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mechanical_resonance
Perhaps, but until you can definitely say where a noise is coming from and why, it could be anything.
I bought a new '75 FLT (Electra-Glide) during the AMF years and when I picked it up, it had a lifter noise (heavy ticking).
The owner of the dealership offered me another bike, but assured me that if I took the one with the "ticking lifter", that he would make it right.
I did, and he did.
However, making it right, required replacing two sets of new lifters with no positive results. Then both jugs, pistons and rings and then a third set of new lifters that fixed the issue.
#10
Reminds me of when my wife went from her beloved '99 Heritage EVO to an '08 Heritage T/C 96".
Until we had a tuner installed with V&H pipes, and a Stage I kit, and mid-frame heat shields, she was not a happy biker!
The difference in heat between the two bikes (that looked identical) was a real shocker.
Last edited by 2AMGuy; 03-01-2015 at 03:51 PM.