A number of members have asked for my advice on making their TP detachable on an SE Ultra so I thought I would make this post for the forum. If others agree you might want to make it a "sticky". My SEUC is a 2010 and these steps only apply to 2010’s and maybe the years following.

Part 1
It's abit involved and you may want to have the dealer handle the hardware and wiring install unless you’re particularly handy. Essentially you'll need 2 TP detach kits (53248-09a and 70032-09) that are used on the normal Ultra. The first kit is expensive $600 and the second is $84. I got both of them for 20% off at my local dealer. The install of the hardware is actually pretty straightforward. I also installed the George Anderson TourPak Relocator bracket to give my better half a little more room on the bike. It's an easy install. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/5753969-post24.html

You then need to make a gang plug to handle the connections for the LED light bar, the interior/saddlebag LED lighting, the 12v power outlet and the power locks. This one plug (72109-94bk + 72119-94bk) can connect everything except the rear speakers, passenger headset plug and the 2 antennas. When this gang plug is unplugged it will coil up easily under the seat.

You can install an internal antenna for both the CB and the AM/FM in the fairing (easiest approach but reception will be reduced). Or you can use the chrome am/fm antenna bracket from the 2009 SE Roadglide (76555-09). This bracket will allow you to relocate your radio antenna from the TP to the space between the fender and the left saddlebag when the TP is removed. It looks nice and is easy to connect and disconnect (no tools) the am/fm antenna using this chrome bracket. Unfortunately the SE RG didn't have a CB so there's no matching chrome bracket for the CB antenna on the right side. I was able to gently heat up a second chrome radio antenna bracket and bend it in reverse. It worked perfectly and by heating it with a propane torch I avoiding harming the chrome during the bending process. I tried the shorty antennas when I was running without the TP, but the reception was so reduced I went back to the stock factory antennas whether the TP is on or off.

That took care of the antennas and the power to the TP. Next was the speaker connections. These were simple 6 pin connectors. One for each rear speaker. When unplugged they easily fit under the seat. There’s also the issue of the passenger’s headset connector. It’s a simple step to slide the headset plug out of its TP holder and store it under the seat when the TP is disconnected. There’s a second plastic holder used to fasten the headset plug under the TP. I removed this plastic holder as its really not necessary.

The big issue is the rear speakers and how to power them. I added Biketronic’s Titan XL Speakers up front and added Biketronic’s Titan amp to power these new front speakers. I am exceptionally pleased with the sound this setup produces whether the TP is attached or not. There’s more volume (without distortion of any kind) than you could ever use, even if you wanted to listen to the speakers wearing a full enclosed helmet (trust me…I’ve done it at 75mph and the volume is plenty at 80% even wearing a full helmet and I’m not kidding).

Part 2
Of course this leaves the question of what to do with the rear speakers. There's 3 solutions: 1) super easy, 2) moderate difficulty and 3) hard solution. I tried all three.

1) The super easy solution is to remove the rear amp and disconnect the rear speakers altogether. To be honest, you’ll not going to hear much from them if you upgrade the front speakers, but your passenger won’t have the advantage of the rear speakers which might be an issue if you do a lot of 2up riding.

2) The moderate difficulty solution is to unbolt the rear amp from the TP. Don’t waste your time trying to find a way to bolt the rear amp back to the detach kit. I tried every way and it simply won’t fit between the detach TP frame and the fender with enough clearance for my comfort.

Once it’s unbolted from the TP, the amp can be placed in the right saddlebag (no need to fasten it as it fits nice and snug along the inside wall of the saddlebag). The stock power plug to the rear amp is long enough to reach from under the seat, and then under the right saddlebag lid where you can plug it into the amp. There's enough space for the wiring harness to slip under the lid, even when it’s latched. This “moderate” approach allows you to power the rear speakers when the TP is on by placing the amp in the saddlebag. The downside to this approach is the storage space you’ll lose and the heat the amp generates in the saddlebag. But this approach does work and it’s easy enough to unplug the amp and store it in the TP when you remove the TP.

3) The hard solution is the approach I ultimately went to. I just got tired of dealing with the amp in the saddlebag. So I wanted to eliminate the rear HK amp altogether and power the rear speakers using the radio’s internal amp. The pins on the radio’s large connector are empty for the 4 +/- wires to the rear speakers. Essentially the stock wiring harness uses the audio from the front channel to power the rear amp which in turn sends out 2 channels. The rear amp in turn powers both the front and rear speakers off the radio’s front channel in the stock setup.

To power the rear speakers from the radio’s amp, you’ll need to tap into the empty rear speaker slots on the back of the radio’s plug. You’ll run 4 speaker wires (2 for each side) from the back of the radio, under the gas tank and back to the speaker connectors that were wired with plugs when you made the TP detachable. You’ll bypass the leads coming from the rear amp and replace them with these new leads off the back of the radio. I strongly recommend if you are planning to go this route, give the guys at Iron Cross Audio a call. You’ll need their assistance to get the correct color codes to make the right connections. They will definitely be able to help you out. http://www.ironcrossaudio.com/

I’m sure there’s other ways to go about making a 2010 SEUC TP detachable, however I’m very pleased with the result and the ease of taking the TP on/off. I can now take the TP on and off in about 10 minutes including taking the seat on and off. It’s not an easy project to install but I think the result is worth it. For the record, my dealer charged 7 hrs to do this install although I handled the CB antenna bracket myself and Iron Cross handled the rewiring of the rear speakers to bypass the rear amp.

Hopefully my approach is helpful to other SE Ultra owner’s looking to make their TP detachable. Here's a picture of the final result.

 

And here's the bike with the TP detached and a StreetGlide seat installed.

 

Good write up...
Got the biggest part of my T/P ready for a quick detach system...Just haven't found the right Q/D set up yet...Don't care for the looks of the mickey mouse ears sticking up taking away from the other wise clean rear fender appearance...

By the way what is the round black object protruding from the passenger arm rest on the lft side?
thanks

 

That's the passenger seat lumbar support adjustment. New for 2010.

BTW, those "mickey mouse ears" (docking posts) can be covered with nice magnetic chrome covers from Harley. They're also new for 2010 part # 48035-09. These covers really clean up the docking area on the rear fender when riding in StreetGlide mode.

 

If you're interested in keeping the stock amp you can do so by rotating the amp 90 degrees and making a couple of brackets to mount the amp out of 1.5" X 3/16" flat stock. I used stainless and countersank the bolts for the amp. You will need to route the amp wiring along the left side of the bike. The first picture shows the brackets mounted to the underside of the detachable rack.

 

Sorry didn't wait long enough for the first picture to attach. Here it is along with a picture showing the amp mounted to the bottom of the rack.

 

This picture show rack attacked to bike with amp wiring running along left side. There is about 1/4" between end of amp plug and fender.

 

These next two pictures show a Kuryakyn laydown license plate zipped tied in place. I'm considering using this plate just haven't decided to drill the holes in the fender.

The first picture is not the best - I was trying to show what the license plate looked like with the rack in place. The brackets that came with the reloacation kit will not work with the amp. There is about 1/2" clearance between the top of the license plate and bottom of amp depending on exactly how close you mount the license plate to the tail light.

The second picture shows what the license plate looks like with the passenger back rest.

The plan is to install in fairing antennas.

Looks like everything should work OK.

 

I this different that doing this job to an 09 Screamin eagle ultra? I thought that 09 and 10 were the same, but the ops post says this only works on 10 and up. Anyone?

 

The '09 may actually be easier from a wiring perspective. In 2010, believe it or not, the MoCo ran only 2 speaker leads off the rear of the radio, back to the rear amp. From the rear amp they ran 2 leads back to the front speakers and 2 leads to the rear speakers. Probably saved 10cents in wiring.

I think you'll find in your 2009, that there are speakers leads from the rear of the radio back to the rear speakers (disconnected). There are also the front speaker wires that run back to the rear amp. The rear amp then has leads back to the front speakers and also to the rear speakers. Once you removed the rear amp, you'll already find that there's rear speaker wires in place that you can tap into (as well as the front speaker wires in the fairing that can be run directly to the front speakers instead of to the rear amp).

Essentially, on your 2009 SEUC, you can skip the process I did which required me to run new speaker wiring to the rear speakers. HD has also gotten into the "fairing amp game" for 2011 with a front fairing amp unit that can be used to replace the rear amp on the SEUC. http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US

I still don't believe this amp unit is as powerful or as small as the Biketronics Titan XL I used and it certainly doesn't come with a lifetime warranty like the BT unit. But it is at least worth looking at.