connecting rods on a 1984 FLT
#1
connecting rods on a 1984 FLT
I have a 1984 FLT im restoring with a shovel bottom end My front connecting rod has about 1/8 of an inch play side to side measured with rod all the up as well as all the way down. the rear has about 1/6 or less anything to worry about? someone has split the case before. I had to split it because 2 bolts were snapped off im guessing somebody over torqued them sucks but needed to be done.I am asking about the play because I have the case split I figured I might as well get it to a shop if that side to side play is bad.I have absolutely no up and down play on the rods when pulled up or down so I guess thats good
#2
its not the side to side as much as its the twist in the front rod - if you hold it in your fingers and if you can feel it move as you twist the rod clockwise and counterclock wise than yes you need to have it looked at - a tiny bit is fine -- if not and no rust is on the flywheels from years of sitting than your good to go - put it back together - the washer between the left side crank main bearing is too thick they all were go to an indy and get a washer .003 smaller - spec is .010 and we check them coming apart -- you could assemble it and check it but if you dont have hands on experence with checking the crank end plays you can get lost in the details - almost all the late shovels i have done have a tight issue and it makes them vibrate more than one that is a little on the loose side - my take some may have a different experence with this -- jz
#3
connecting rods
its not the side to side as much as its the twist in the front rod - if you hold it in your fingers and if you can feel it move as you twist the rod clockwise and counterclock wise than yes you need to have it looked at - a tiny bit is fine -- if not and no rust is on the flywheels from years of sitting than your good to go - put it back together - the washer between the left side crank main bearing is too thick they all were go to an indy and get a washer .003 smaller - spec is .010 and we check them coming apart -- you could assemble it and check it but if you dont have hands on experence with checking the crank end plays you can get lost in the details - almost all the late shovels i have done have a tight issue and it makes them vibrate more than one that is a little on the loose side - my take some may have a different experence with this -- jz
There is no play when twisted just that side to side 1/8 of an inch on front one. the vibration wont bother me.no rust it has been worked on before but if the vibration is ok and want harm anything I will just leave it alone I had to split the case because someone had snapped a bolt off on the middle bolt flush on the inside of the case theres enough bolt showing to where I can place a nut on it MIG weld the inside of the nut and get it out.Will the vibration be an issue? if not im leaving it alone.I would never attempt to work on the fly wheels dont have the right tools.
Last edited by kino44; 10-03-2014 at 12:12 PM.
#4
#6
#7
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#8
yes #7 is the seal and 6 is the race look at the area the seal rides on in make sure a groove in the metal is not too deep as it wont seal if its chewed < as engine oil will be seaping into the primary while its running - if it is you can turn the seal around backwards and install it that way as oil is on both sides anyway
#9
seal
yes #7 is the seal and 6 is the race look at the area the seal rides on in make sure a groove in the metal is not too deep as it wont seal if its chewed < as engine oil will be seaping into the primary while its running - if it is you can turn the seal around backwards and install it that way as oil is on both sides anyway
ok so if its in decent shape your saying I can reuse it if I flip it? I will just replace it probably just a firm believer in doing things once the right way the first time
#10
Buy a new seal never ever reuse one ......... Particularly on something that will cost thousands to rebuild.