Does the amount of chain oil affect the rotor/stator or clutch plates in any way? I want to run an as dry of a primary as possible. I was thinking of sealing the primary up with only a vent pipe on the back of the inner and not using a chain oiler.
When I hear of guys adding fluid up to the bottom of the clutch basket, it tells me the stator is continually soaked. Is this the way it is?
What do you think?

 

Shovelhead owners do it allatime!!!
Hell! The MoCo went to doing it that way [finally] in the late '80's.

 

you have an electric charging system in a closed space attached to a hot motor and the oil is the cooling and you want to do what

 

The stock circulating system only contains a few ounces of oil at a time. It is continuously pulled back. It is sufficient to keep the chain well lubricated from a constant stream onto the primary chain. The sealed system that many owners switch to contains much more oil since the only way it will circulate is by the ring gear on the clutch hub splashing it around. If your goal is to have the minimum amount of oil, stick to the stock system. Failure to keep the chain well lubricated will destroy the chain and adjuster in only a few miles.

 

Absolutely

 

So then what about the stator and rotor??? Does it not matter that they are getting soaked? I'm installing a 32amp Spyke system and as you already know, it's as exposed to the primary fluid as are the clutch plates.


Your explanation of the stock oiling system is perfect for my needs if, I was running the old stock 74". Now, I've decided to become a bit more conscious about what flows through my engine. I'd rather not have the chain oil recycling back into my tank. It's taken many years to assemble my 'dream' engine (93") and I'd like to keep the internals as clean as possible. We'll see

 

You can isolate the primary from the engine oil by disconnecting the feed and return lines. Plug the ports. Use enough oil to come up to the clutch basket when the bike is on the side stand. The plates will get a bit wet and the alternator/stator will get some splash but won't harm either. They are designed to run in a wet environment.
If you want dry, go to a belt and no oil. If you go that route, get new friction plates as soaked one won't lose their residual oil for some time, if ever. And make sure to vent the primary to atmosphere if doing the belt thing. You will find the dry clutch a bit noisy but it will work just fine and the noise can be traced and reduced if not eliminated altogether.
I put a belt on my '52FL and my '78 FXE and it was a good update for both bikes.
Not happy with the wet clutch on my '04 FLHT as it now is a bit grabby (after ten years) and causes me some issues at stop signs & in traffic. Would like to belt the bike but that will have to wait for some other time.


Edit: Either way you go, make sure you clutch is in top condition. A properly adjusted OEM shovel clutch is a wonderful thing. But it requires more than just fudging on worn parts and shortcuts.