Starter keeps turning FXEF-80
#11
Racepres,
BTW, thanks for the tips. I cant vouch for who made the solenoid so the quality is suspect based on your comments.
I just took it apart and lubed the shaft and spings just to rule that out.
You mentioned trying this with the plugs in? How would that effect the process? (Just asking)
I was going to asking if its smart to test the solinoid with the starter wire OFF the solenoid and primary removed? Or leave outer primary on so the shaft has something solid to sit in.
BTW, thanks for the tips. I cant vouch for who made the solenoid so the quality is suspect based on your comments.
I just took it apart and lubed the shaft and spings just to rule that out.
You mentioned trying this with the plugs in? How would that effect the process? (Just asking)
I was going to asking if its smart to test the solinoid with the starter wire OFF the solenoid and primary removed? Or leave outer primary on so the shaft has something solid to sit in.
#12
#13
The reason that you should have the plugs installed:
When the piston passes through the compression stroke, there is a momentary decrease in the friction between the pinion gear and the ring gear, enough so that the spring in the solenoid is able to retract the plunger in the solenoid when the start button is released.
The best way to configure the starter electrics is with a big relay, like the one in John Z`s post. When configured that way, the power to both the solenoid and starter is cut when the button is released.
Here`s one from J&P Cycles, but you can find one at your local auto parts store, it is the same as the starter relay found on the firewall or inner fender of many Ford cars and trucks.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/380-014
When the piston passes through the compression stroke, there is a momentary decrease in the friction between the pinion gear and the ring gear, enough so that the spring in the solenoid is able to retract the plunger in the solenoid when the start button is released.
The best way to configure the starter electrics is with a big relay, like the one in John Z`s post. When configured that way, the power to both the solenoid and starter is cut when the button is released.
Here`s one from J&P Cycles, but you can find one at your local auto parts store, it is the same as the starter relay found on the firewall or inner fender of many Ford cars and trucks.
http://www.jpcycles.com/product/380-014
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; 11-24-2014 at 06:44 PM.
#14
johnjzjz - I'm ordering that Blue Streak relay. Where is a good place to mount it?
Everyone else, thanks for all of your responses. I'm not ignoring them and taking a look at each one and trying.
My Aunt gave me this bike after my Uncle died. I'm taking my sweet time putting it together, but I'm at 98% so time to finish. Winter has finally hit in Alaska, so it's a garage queen til May but I wanna hear the old girl chug again.
I'm gonna attempt with plugs in and see where we are. I'll post again with results.
Thanks,
Jim in AK
Everyone else, thanks for all of your responses. I'm not ignoring them and taking a look at each one and trying.
My Aunt gave me this bike after my Uncle died. I'm taking my sweet time putting it together, but I'm at 98% so time to finish. Winter has finally hit in Alaska, so it's a garage queen til May but I wanna hear the old girl chug again.
I'm gonna attempt with plugs in and see where we are. I'll post again with results.
Thanks,
Jim in AK
#15
#16
Plugs in, no joy
I disconnected the wire from the solenoid to the starter to test the relay. The relay clicks on/off as I push and release the starter. The solenoid doesn't move though.
I reconnected the starter to the solenoid, put the plugs in, and the starter still keeps turning once the button is released.
I reconnected the starter to the solenoid, put the plugs in, and the starter still keeps turning once the button is released.
#19
#20
I would Not have any problem running that shaft...I am gonna go with what Tom84FXST says about the engagement [shifter] fork.. You are there now, aand that is the most likely spot on the Shaft to be a Problem.
I'm still Thinking Main solenoid...the one on the Primary...Only that solenoid and/ or thee fork [or similar mechanical assembly] can cause "stuck" engagement. And, if the Main solenoid "sticks" don't make two ***** if you take power away from the "Trigger" it is still mechanically, Stuck and making contact at the Washer. Very very common....especially with Chiwanese Solenoids!!!
BTW, NAPA has a Solenoid rebuild "kit" worth it in every way!
I'm still Thinking Main solenoid...the one on the Primary...Only that solenoid and/ or thee fork [or similar mechanical assembly] can cause "stuck" engagement. And, if the Main solenoid "sticks" don't make two ***** if you take power away from the "Trigger" it is still mechanically, Stuck and making contact at the Washer. Very very common....especially with Chiwanese Solenoids!!!
BTW, NAPA has a Solenoid rebuild "kit" worth it in every way!