Bingo ... This works great!

 

Again...Removing the 12v from that small terminal on the solenoid will Not force it to mechanically disconnect if the Washer is Welded to the studs!!!
Even if you ad a Solenoid...[I have enough problems with one] It is still the main solenoid that is Stuck...big deal the starter has no power, the Starter shaft is still engaged...don't want to ride around that way!!!! For emergency stuck solenoid situations...Nothing beats a Cut-off switch...Mechanical from negative on battery...Cheap too. And doubles as a [Semi] theft deterrent.....
Do whatever ya want...I want to see the Inside of the Main solenoid!!!

 

what happens is the same as a kill switch to the ground like you suggest ( but you dont get burned by the pipe when its dark trying to find it ) - the small green wire is turned around right at the solenoid and connected direct to the top term and its small normal term full time ( they are as one ) - as it only gets power when the relay energizes it - the main power into the soleniod

sooo the handle bar button becomes your mechanical on off switch hidden on the bike someplace -- getting to the same place using different streets

 

The blue streak type relay does not only control the voltage to the solenoid coil, it controls the main starter motor current supply.

When you release the start button, it not only cuts power to the solenoid coil, it cuts power to the battery cable going to the solenoid.

Sometimes the reason for starter run on is due to the friction between the pinion gear and the ring gear, the pinion gear can`t retract due to this friction.

And even though the starter button is released, the solenoid spring doesn`t have enough ***** to pull the pinion gear out of the ring gear, and until the gear is retracted, the electrical contacts will continue to supply current to the starter motor.

The Blue Streak type relay cuts the current to the solenoid, so even if there is excessive friction at the pinion/ring gear, the solenoid will be de- energized, this reduces the friction enough so that the pinion gear will retract.


OP: you still haven`t load tested the battery. Checking a battery`s voltage at rest is a waste of time. Either have it load tested, or test the voltage while the starter is cranking the engine (with plugs installed).

 

Agreed...under-voltage is what causes over current which is what causes the "washer" to weld itself to the contacts...gonna happen to Any [all] solenoid [s] in the system...

 

Under voltage causes the solenoid to chatter, and when this happens there is arching between the contact disk and the contacts, causing molten metal to form on the contacts, the disk sticks, and the battery disconnect panic drill commences.

If someone hears the solenoid chatter and continues to press the starter button, they are just asking for excitement...

 

Got the Ford 4pin relay and found my old Hella master switch. Below is a pic of the solenoid guts. Looks fine to me but what do I know.



Solenoid





M0811-14 is on the side of the solenoid.





Ford 4-pin relay.

 

Looks OK to me also...
Realize that the Ford Relay is just like the Solenoid inside of it.....
A stuck "washer" on one is just as likely as the other.

 

When that happened to my wide glide,I learned that the rubber boot was letting primary oil into the contacts,it needs to be tight on the plunger, mine was old and swollen, replace all those components, there inexpensive. It's never happened again.