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Old 03-16-2015, 07:55 PM
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So after 10 years of stalking shovels on craiglist, I finally bought a shovel! 1982 FXRS. Ive got lots of questions for you all.

- What oil is best for shovelhead? I use synthetic in everything I own, but not sure what is avail in the weight oil this engine needs.
- What should I got over prior to getting this bike on the road?
- It has belt primary, and I found the clutch to be very grabby in comparison to my experience with 03 FXD I once owned and my 98 FXDL. Is this normal for a dry clutch??
-This bike is a bit of a blackbox because the engine was rebuilt by a previous owner but current owner did not know what was put in the motor. It started beautifully and sounded good. What is the cranking compression of a stock motor (was thinking of putting a gauge on it to see if its far from stock)??
- Also, no one has the key for the ignition. Is there an easy way to get a key made, or have to buy a new switch? Wheres the best place to buy?

Any other tips are appreciated.

Russ
 

Last edited by atengnr; 03-16-2015 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 03-24-2015, 08:09 AM
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I just recently purchased my first Shovel too, so I've been going through some of the same questions you have listed.

- I would just use regular Harley 50w oil. Synthetics in these old engines, unless they have been gone through and stuff updated, is not needed.
- Check all of the normal things: brake fluid condition, spark plugs, air filter, flush the tank, lights, tire conditions and pressures, throttle adjustments and clutch adjustment
- Sounds like the clutch is not adjusted correctly. Belt driven bikes I've worked on don't seem to grab or feel any different than wet primary systems
- According to Harley, any compression over 90 psi and as long as the cylinders are within 20% of each other is good
- Whenever I buy a used bike, key or not, I go and get a new ignition switch with new keys. That way I know I'm the only one with keys to it. LOL
 
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Old 03-24-2015, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by atengnr
- It has belt primary, and I found the clutch to be very grabby in comparison to my experience with 03 FXD I once owned and my 98 FXDL. Is this normal for a dry clutch??
A belt drive has no compensator ... so you have to have a little more finesse when you let out on the clutch...once you get used to it, you'll forget there was any difference.
 
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Old 03-24-2015, 12:37 PM
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I've wrenched on these old girls for over 20 years, but still a garage hack. +1 on the synthetic comment above. Even after I rebuild a tranny or go through an engine case, synthetic still finds a way to seep out somewhere it seems. I use the Valvoline Racing 50wt in all my Shovels, and around here it's betwen $5-6 a quart. For the tranny I usually use a good dino gear oil 75-140wt (although 75-90wt would probably be fine - just my personal preference).

Iggy isn't hard to replace if you want the peace of mind of a new key. I usually don't even take my Shovel keys with me on most rides, but then again the bike doesn't leave my sight either.

Dry belt clutches sound and feel different than a stocker. FWIW, stockers aren't really a "wet" clutch either. The primary fluid is only in there to keep the chain lubed and doesn't fill the entire clutch basket, only gets splashed around by the outside edge. If the bikes are ever overfilled with primary fluid you'll know it - the clutch will get soaked and begin complainin'.

Best of luck with the old girl. You'll need a service manual and either turn the wrenches yourself or find someone who can. After a few of the bugs are found and worked out, she'll be fun and much more reliable than you might think.

Hobo
 
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Old 03-24-2015, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by hobobiker
I use the Valvoline Racing 50wt in all my Shovels, and around here it's betwen $5-6 a quart.

Hobo
That's the VR1 car oil right?
I used to use that a lot, 50 or 60, available pretty much everywhere at Autozone, so convenient
I knew it had Zinc, which is good, but some time ago after some deiscussion in these boards, I decided to get motorcycle dyno oil
I can't remember the erguments correctly, but I think that the VR1, although having it, does not have enough Zinc

So please take this with a grain of salt
I still have a couple of VR1 left... so might use them in case of emergency, but not at the next oil change
 
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Old 03-24-2015, 02:02 PM
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Check it out like any other bike
SYS oil I used that in my newer bikes, in my older bikes 50W pry, 75-140 trans, sys oil will fine the way out on the older bikes.
Clutch get used to it.
INc. switch You can buy a new one if you want Cheep about 49.00 more or less. If I am going to be away from my bike I use a chain and a lock on the old bikes.
Enjoy your shovel, hell maybe some day you my own a pan
 
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Old 03-24-2015, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by V_twins
That's the VR1 car oil right?
I used to use that a lot, 50 or 60, available pretty much everywhere at Autozone, so convenient
I knew it had Zinc, which is good, but some time ago after some deiscussion in these boards, I decided to get motorcycle dyno oil
I can't remember the erguments correctly, but I think that the VR1, although having it, does not have enough Zinc

So please take this with a grain of salt
I still have a couple of VR1 left... so might use them in case of emergency, but not at the next oil change
Yep, that's the stuff and you're right about some of the zinc discussions. I've added a little zinc additive over the years, but if you add TOO much the stuff has actually been known to destroy the brass bushings in the internals. A good SG rated oil is usually best for most bike applications - the zinc is supposed to help on the tappet/cam surfaces.

I wrench on these old things all the time. I agree that the newer oils probably don't have the zinc and phosphorous that the older oils had, which might cause some damage over the years. I haven't ever detected any in MY sleds so I probably worry less about it, but I'm sure it could happen. Thanks for bringing this up for the OP...

Hobo
 
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Old 03-25-2015, 06:52 AM
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Thanks all for the information. I am excited to finally have a shovelhead. I enjoy wrenching, but my job limits the time I have to do this, so depending on what needs to be fixed, I may have to find a mechanic to work on it.

Can anyone comment on how to get a sense of what is in this motor? I was surprised at how quick it was (quicker than my evo fxdl for sure), but has factory carburetor.
 
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