I rebuilt the front calipur and line bored a larger mounting pin into the calipur. Bike stops fine doesn't rattle but is a little tight to push. The rotar is straight. If I back off the four 12point bolts that hold the two halves together 1/4 of a turn it rolls fine. I have tried snugging each bolt only leaving the others 1/4 out and it's tight to push again. The bike rides fine but I hate to think that I have to wait till the shoes wear down a little to be able to move it easily. Rotor is not hot after a ride also just warm.

Randy

 

did you overhaul the master ???? i have seen masters that collected a small clog i guess and they the master retained pressure even when parked

actually going to pick a bike up monday that is doing just that in the fall we swapped the master out and it is doing what you have

 

Try replacing the brake hose. They swell up inside with age and often will let fluid travel one way but not the other.
If your brake system has gotten to that stage, it really should have new hose plus master cylidner and caliper seals replaced along with a good clean out.

 

Entire front brake system is new. Calipur , fittings and line. Rotar is staight. The only thing I can think of is the calipur is not perfectly square but that would result in uneven puck wear. Like I said back off all four bolts one quarter turn and all is good but can't fave loosened bolts holding a calipur together

Randy

 

entire system? you didn't mention the MC.
spelling is "caliper".

 

Sorry Pjb, everything with the exception of the caliper is brand new. I put a rebuild seal kit in it. Everything works...no leaks, brakes stop the bike. Just seem tight when the four bolts are snugged up when trying to roll the bike forward or backward.

randy

 

When you line bored the new hole in the caliper, did you set the caliper up dead level on the table, using the pad mounting area as a reference? Could be the hole is bored a little ****-eyed and is holding the caliper at an angle to the disc. You could check that by mounting up the caliper without the pads in place and measure between the disc and the fixed pad seating area at the front and rear, top and bottom, and make sure they are all the same, or close to.

While you are doing that, measure the width of the area the pads seat in and make sure it is larger than the thickness of the two pads plus the disc plus some clearance. Could be the pads are too thick. You never know with aftermarket parts these days.

 

I'm betting the MC is not releasing pressure. Disassemble and clean it all out. Blow the small passages with air.

 

Easy enough to check. Crack the bleeder and see if it "spurts/squirts" fluid. Of course if the bore isn't concentric that could cause pressure on the piston also ... Quite a quandary!

 

Pull the bolts and with a "C" clamp push the piston into the caliper until it bottoms out. Remount and pump up the brake to grab the rotor. If the piston does not release when the MC is, either you have the wrong piston or the bore is not round. The front has a spring washer sandwiched in the piston assemble to cause the piston to retract slightly. The rear does not need that washer.
As noted if the bleeder opened squirts and the piston releases then several things could be wrong. The fluid is not returning to the MC, the piston is handing up in the bore, the caliper is not "square" with the rotor (mounting pin out of alignment) wrong MC for the system, or the caliper is too tight on the mount.
Never loosen the caliper half bolts! That only spreads the caliper and you might lose braking action or the piston may come out too far.
Let us know what you find the problem is.