Went for a ride today and after a short break, I went to leave and the starter dragged but it did start. For some reason when I got home I decided to see if the bike was charging and its not. A voltmeter always would show 14 volts when running and now it doesn't. I looked for any broken or loose wires coming from the voltage regulator and didn't see any. What could cause it to quit and is there a way to test if its the voltage regulator or something worse? I understand pistons and gears, but electrical can sometimes stymy me.

randy

 

Usually it is the voltage regulator/diode bridge rectifier. Basically your Alternator is putting out AC and your battery is DC so 3 diodes inside the rectifier convert AC to DC. Loose 1 diode and the bridge is open.

May want to 1st see if the connection at the block is still good. 2 wires go into the block left front and plug into the stator winding. Years ago we had a wire clip t hold that plug un place as it would arc and burn the terminals. Unplug and check the terminal in your regulator plug and the stator terminals in the block are still good. Then put and Ohm meter on the stator terminals to confirm it is not open. Magnet wire is heavy on the stator so little resistance but when it fails it opens. If you have a good stator and terminals the only other thing is the voltage regulator/ rectifier.

 

Well this totally blows. I pulled the connection and tested each pin for continuity on the stator to growd. Got continuity. then I tested each pin of the stater to each other for resistance and I get infinity. So just how big a mind f*** is this going to be to replace the stator?

randy

 

the 2 issues that can be a PITA are 2:
1-removing the clutch hub if you have never done it before
2-removing the compensator nut if previous owner put loctite or if it's seized in place

If you are lucky enough, both will come out easy

 

If you can find the old style clutch hub puller the hub is not that bad. Looks like a 4 or 5" plate with a threaded rod through the middle and several tapped smaller holes around perimeter to clamp to hub. You risk breaking the cast hub if you try to do it without a puller. If you don't or can't find a clutch hub puller, I have often thoought but never tried a steering wheel puller might do it.....

 

Well I have had the clutch and compensator off before so that's not biggy for me. Since ive owned this bike, I put on a nacel with a 7 inch halogen and running lights as well. I m wondering if that were to much for the old charging system. I suppose I need to replace the regulator as well? I read somewhere about an alternator for the those extra lights. Does anyone know if that is true and can you recommend what all I should be buying. I want to do this once. We finally got some nice weather and this happens.

randy

 

mmm.... I think early shovels had 18amp charging system, late shovels 22 amp.
There is a 32 amp kit for all big twins up to 88 or later, not sure.
If you have OEM charging system I suggesting updating to any af the later ones (more amps). For that you will need to replace both regulator and stator

 

So jp cycles have 15 amp stators. Im up in Ontario Canada and with the exchange, the BS at the border, shipping and brokerages, I will just order something up here and I will look for the higher amp one. Thanks a bunch. There goes next weekend. We had a vintage car and bike show I was going to enter. Not now. Thanks for all your help fellas.

randy

 

32 Amp at J&P
32-Amp Charging Kit Fits Your 1974 Harley-Davidson Electra Glide FLH Change Motorcycle


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Looks like a complete kit, chrome Regulator too...... Please double check as I just did a quick search