1968 flh primary full oil
#1
07-04-2015, 09:44 AM
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Racine Wi
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1968 flh primary full oil
i have a 1968 FLH and I did some work in the primary took it all apart and now it all back togather and never ran it. so inside the primary its all claen. Still never ran it and about a month later it sat. Now I went to change oil and I check out the plug on the interprimary to put a new o-ring on the plug and about a pint to a quart of oil came out of there. is that normal? I know oil gets in there and it gets sucked back out but it never ran. So all that oil got in there. i do know when I had it apart oil was seeping out from engine but not much. bike was level at time now on kick stand.
#2
07-06-2015, 11:34 PM
Oil tends to bypass the pump check valve and pool in the bottom end with time. Look in the oil tank for it's level. It will probably be low. DO NOT fill until you have run the engine. After a good warm up the oil will be back in the tank.
The best thing you could do is isolate the primary from the engine oil system. The oil returned from the chain case always has metal fines from the chain action wear which wind up in the scraper cavity behind the flywheels then through the scavenger(breather) and return side of the pump.
The usual thing most do is to pull the inner primary fittings, plug the holes, leave the oil feed in place for venting purposes, and add oil to the bottom of the clutch basket bottom with the bike on the side stand. When upright the chain/teeth will fling the oil and keep everything lubed. Too much oil and the clutches might get too soaked and stick or slip.
If bypass is the issue, you can lap the check valve by brazing a 3/8" ball to a 5/16 or 1/4" rod and spinning it with lapping compound to clean up the seat in the pump. You will want to clean the lap compound AND debris before putting it back together. DO NOT use the hammer method to "reseat" the valve. Some people stick a ball in the hole and tap it with a hammer. That CAN crack the pump housing, seat, or hole wall.
PS To lap the pump valve it is best to do so with the pump off the bike and at a bench so you can see the seat and clean out the grit better than on the bike.
The best thing you could do is isolate the primary from the engine oil system. The oil returned from the chain case always has metal fines from the chain action wear which wind up in the scraper cavity behind the flywheels then through the scavenger(breather) and return side of the pump.
The usual thing most do is to pull the inner primary fittings, plug the holes, leave the oil feed in place for venting purposes, and add oil to the bottom of the clutch basket bottom with the bike on the side stand. When upright the chain/teeth will fling the oil and keep everything lubed. Too much oil and the clutches might get too soaked and stick or slip.
If bypass is the issue, you can lap the check valve by brazing a 3/8" ball to a 5/16 or 1/4" rod and spinning it with lapping compound to clean up the seat in the pump. You will want to clean the lap compound AND debris before putting it back together. DO NOT use the hammer method to "reseat" the valve. Some people stick a ball in the hole and tap it with a hammer. That CAN crack the pump housing, seat, or hole wall.
PS To lap the pump valve it is best to do so with the pump off the bike and at a bench so you can see the seat and clean out the grit better than on the bike.
Last edited by Krutch; 07-06-2015 at 11:38 PM. Reason: After thought
#3
07-07-2015, 09:03 PM
Club Member
Oil tends to bypass the pump check valve and pool in the bottom end with time. Look in the oil tank for it's level. It will probably be low. DO NOT fill until you have run the engine. After a good warm up the oil will be back in the tank.
The best thing you could do is isolate the primary from the engine oil system. The oil returned from the chain case always has metal fines from the chain action wear which wind up in the scraper cavity behind the flywheels then through the scavenger(breather) and return side of the pump.
The usual thing most do is to pull the inner primary fittings, plug the holes, leave the oil feed in place for venting purposes, and add oil to the bottom of the clutch basket bottom with the bike on the side stand. When upright the chain/teeth will fling the oil and keep everything lubed. Too much oil and the clutches might get too soaked and stick or slip.
If bypass is the issue, you can lap the check valve by brazing a 3/8" ball to a 5/16 or 1/4" rod and spinning it with lapping compound to clean up the seat in the pump. You will want to clean the lap compound AND debris before putting it back together. DO NOT use the hammer method to "reseat" the valve. Some people stick a ball in the hole and tap it with a hammer. That CAN crack the pump housing, seat, or hole wall.
PS To lap the pump valve it is best to do so with the pump off the bike and at a bench so you can see the seat and clean out the grit better than on the bike.
The best thing you could do is isolate the primary from the engine oil system. The oil returned from the chain case always has metal fines from the chain action wear which wind up in the scraper cavity behind the flywheels then through the scavenger(breather) and return side of the pump.
The usual thing most do is to pull the inner primary fittings, plug the holes, leave the oil feed in place for venting purposes, and add oil to the bottom of the clutch basket bottom with the bike on the side stand. When upright the chain/teeth will fling the oil and keep everything lubed. Too much oil and the clutches might get too soaked and stick or slip.
If bypass is the issue, you can lap the check valve by brazing a 3/8" ball to a 5/16 or 1/4" rod and spinning it with lapping compound to clean up the seat in the pump. You will want to clean the lap compound AND debris before putting it back together. DO NOT use the hammer method to "reseat" the valve. Some people stick a ball in the hole and tap it with a hammer. That CAN crack the pump housing, seat, or hole wall.
PS To lap the pump valve it is best to do so with the pump off the bike and at a bench so you can see the seat and clean out the grit better than on the bike.
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