Sorry for all the thick questions but hey ho...what are forums for eh?

I've this front wheel and I've fitted the bearing cups and the bearings as well as the seals (and fitted the sleeve in the centre of the hub in between both bearings) but they are very much recessed in the hub if you know what I mean...



Now the baggy containing the parts for the frontwheel only contains this:



So what am I missing here?

There's only one circlip, but even if there were to: the recess for the circlips is atleast 10 mm above the seal so what's the use?

And where do the cupped washers go?

Help GREATLY appreciated!

 

The flat washer with the steeped edge goes in between the centre spacer and the inner race of the bearing raised part against the inner race and the thin shims go behind that to give you the correct preload. You do this by adding or removing different thickness shims. You're workshop manual will giveyou the specs.

 

Hmmm...and what about the circlip that doesn't seem to do anything really?

And is it normal that the seal is recessed so far into the hub?

 

Most front wheels don't have circling. ..the seal just keeps the grease in and water out so it doesn't matter how far it goes in. Check the spacers and see where the seal has been running on.

 

May help as far as thought on the system of the tapered roller bearing. Something looks amiss with the large c-bore. Almost like someone modified wheel for a sealed bearing. Did you put a golf ball daub of grease in your palm and walk the tapered bearing around forcing grease thru bearing?

some guidelines

Instructions
Things You'll Need
· Service manual for your make and year Harley

· Hex sockets

· Torque wrench

· Magnetic dial indicator

· 3 each .002 inch, .004 inch, .008 inch, .016 inch and .032 inch axle shims.

· Multi-purpose lithium grease

1.

o 1

Torque the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench after reinstalling the wheel bearings, axle and spacers.

o 2

Mount a magnetic dial indicator on the front fender, forks or brake caliper so you can measure the lateral movement of the axle in the wheel.

o 3

Push and pull the wheel along the lateral axis of the axle while reading the measurements on the dial indicator. If the end play is greater than 0.18 inches the wheel bearing must be shimmed.

o 4

Remove the axle nut, axle, spacer and wheel bearing assembly with a socket wrench and socket if necessary. Insert an axle shim of one of the five commonly available thicknesses, between .002 and .032 inches, on the axle next to the spacer if necessary and replace the wheel bearing assembly.

o 5

Re-tighten the axle nut to 60 pounds of torque, or to the torque specified in the service manual for your motorcycle if different, with a hex socket and a torque wrench.

o 6

Re-measure the axle end play with the magnetic dial indicator. Repeat as necessary. Repack the wheel bearings with lithium grease and continue wheel assembly when the end play measures between .004 and 018 inches.

Tips & Warnings
· Axle nut torque can affect end play by up to .004 inch.

· Do not repack the wheel bearing before checking end play.

 

I can't see the picture at work but didn't some of the rear wheels have two bearings on the drive side? Or was that another brand?

 

Yep...I discovered that when I put a 1979 16 spoke mag wheel on my 1996 roadking. There is two tapered roller bearings on the drive side encaded in a bolt on steel housing and one on the brake disc side.

 

Here is a 1982 Rear... http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....HAIN%20HOUSING

Bad boy has all kinds of bearings in it. What a mess...Bet that snap ring is in between the two tapered opposed bearing on the one side. Must be a groove in the aluminum hub for it.

 

This is what I had on one side. ..