Need Help with Static Timing Electronic Ignition
#1
Need Help with Static Timing Electronic Ignition
The bike is a 73 FLH. Appears to be stock. It has an Accel 35496 electronic ignition (can't seem to find much info on this item). The instructions say to static time it to get the front cylinder at TDC and then rotate the ignition module clockwise until the LED goes out. AS soon as that occurs, button it back up. The problem is that I can't turn my module far enough to get the LED to go out before it gets to the ends of the slots. Any ideas? Thanks.
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we use the air method - but on a shovel you can see the ( rear intake valve is open ) on TDC front looking into the sparkplug hole --
air - confirm - when you think its on front TDC apply air into the rear sparkplug hole with a rubber tipped blower lightly - with the rear wheel off the ground we do this on a lift - if it is on TDC front you will hear air escaping through the carb if its not the rear wheel will turn in a forward direction as it was on TDC rear
air - confirm - when you think its on front TDC apply air into the rear sparkplug hole with a rubber tipped blower lightly - with the rear wheel off the ground we do this on a lift - if it is on TDC front you will hear air escaping through the carb if its not the rear wheel will turn in a forward direction as it was on TDC rear
#7
Thanks to all for the input. Still having a problem with it. I tried it again. I made sure that the front cylinder was at TDC on the compression stroke. The TDC mark was in the window. Pulled the cover for the electronic ignition. The instructions for the Accel electronic ignition sat to turn the ignition on. The LED will turn red after awhile. I actually had to jiggle it back and forth slightly. The instructions say to the turn it clockwise until the LED goes out. It will then be set for TDC. I kept turning it clockwise and the LED would not go out. I even took the screws out of the backplate and rotated it clockwise as far as it would go (about 90 degrees) and the LED still wouldn't go out. Put the screws back in the backplate and have it advanced as far as it goes. That seems to be were it idles and runs the smoothest. I'm guessing that there may be something wrong with the ignition module.
I'm also having problems with my starter/solenoid and maybe my carb jetting, but I want to make sure that the timing is good first. But those are subjects for other threads. Thanks again.
I'm also having problems with my starter/solenoid and maybe my carb jetting, but I want to make sure that the timing is good first. But those are subjects for other threads. Thanks again.
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#8
pans and shovels have early to late have different marks for TDC with different wheels
if you do it again and you see the intake valve open in the rear head confirming TDC -- use a 6 inch screwdriver in the front plug hole hold it with one hand and with the other hand rock the rear wheel back and forth to confirm the front piston is actually at TDC -- and the mark you are looking at is actually the TDC mark you are using to set the static for the led light
what ignition are you using
if you do it again and you see the intake valve open in the rear head confirming TDC -- use a 6 inch screwdriver in the front plug hole hold it with one hand and with the other hand rock the rear wheel back and forth to confirm the front piston is actually at TDC -- and the mark you are looking at is actually the TDC mark you are using to set the static for the led light
what ignition are you using
#9
pans and shovels have early to late have different marks for TDC with different wheels
if you do it again and you see the intake valve open in the rear head confirming TDC -- use a 6 inch screwdriver in the front plug hole hold it with one hand and with the other hand rock the rear wheel back and forth to confirm the front piston is actually at TDC -- and the mark you are looking at is actually the TDC mark you are using to set the static for the led light
what ignition are you using
if you do it again and you see the intake valve open in the rear head confirming TDC -- use a 6 inch screwdriver in the front plug hole hold it with one hand and with the other hand rock the rear wheel back and forth to confirm the front piston is actually at TDC -- and the mark you are looking at is actually the TDC mark you are using to set the static for the led light
what ignition are you using
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08-08-2012 07:45 PM