Four speed tips please
#1
#2
#3
#4
on both counts would be correct - I see many today with the change in the gear oil we are seeing the 4 speed Hi gear bushing taking a big hit ( GL 5 gear oil ) as nothing in newer transmissions and differential's has any brass in it anymore the new oil is not helping
typical list 4 speed today in a rebuild
main ball bearing - set of loose rollers 88 in all or the 3 cage bearings 1977 and on ( look for damage in the case race very common - new counter shaft and its thrust washers ( if you re use the old ones the end play will be off as they wear stepped - both low and second gear bushings - shift dogs and shift forks and hats goes for third and forth as well no bushing on third unless its an early pan or knuckle - Hi gear bush needs special care to install and to fit / it is cheaper to just buy a new hi gear sometimes not always - ratchet top needs new springs all 4 / new selector bushing and operating arm bushing - the drum spring tube should be looked at as it wears inside and not seen unless you take it apart - they make 2 different main seals the one that comes with the kits is a cheap single lip open back tin seal - the good one has a double lip and is closed in the back with a second tin shield and it has painted sealant on its install face
the main shaft you need to mike the area the Hi gear bushing rides on that bushing will and does wear out the steel on the main shaft .001 is the max or a new installed bushing will wiggle dry on it
the engagement areas of the gears needs to be looked at as chunks and broken off pieces will just wreck the new dogs in a year --
its not cheap or easy - do it all with USA stuff is pricy -- or buying a china piece of junk off flea bay looks like a deal but its not
typical list 4 speed today in a rebuild
main ball bearing - set of loose rollers 88 in all or the 3 cage bearings 1977 and on ( look for damage in the case race very common - new counter shaft and its thrust washers ( if you re use the old ones the end play will be off as they wear stepped - both low and second gear bushings - shift dogs and shift forks and hats goes for third and forth as well no bushing on third unless its an early pan or knuckle - Hi gear bush needs special care to install and to fit / it is cheaper to just buy a new hi gear sometimes not always - ratchet top needs new springs all 4 / new selector bushing and operating arm bushing - the drum spring tube should be looked at as it wears inside and not seen unless you take it apart - they make 2 different main seals the one that comes with the kits is a cheap single lip open back tin seal - the good one has a double lip and is closed in the back with a second tin shield and it has painted sealant on its install face
the main shaft you need to mike the area the Hi gear bushing rides on that bushing will and does wear out the steel on the main shaft .001 is the max or a new installed bushing will wiggle dry on it
the engagement areas of the gears needs to be looked at as chunks and broken off pieces will just wreck the new dogs in a year --
its not cheap or easy - do it all with USA stuff is pricy -- or buying a china piece of junk off flea bay looks like a deal but its not
Last edited by johnjzjz; 11-28-2015 at 07:12 AM.
#5
#6
yea twist - I have many sets of mid usa in 4 speeds and they do the job, I have even blended them into early units some MID usa some oem or even Andrews - they only come with the 70 up main shaft and I have a pile of them now, checked every one and they were in spec - its Korean steel imported to Taiwan for machining I was told but who knows / they do work one guy has 50,000 miles on his we did
#7
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#8
The "fix" in the video is another in a long list of gimmicks trying to fix the 4 speed leak...none of them work long term. If you have a leak, it is almost a sure thing that the output gear bushing is the root cause, and until you fix that, the leak will always comeback in short order.
http://shovelhead.us/pics/sheets/leakingtranny.pdf
http://shovelhead.us/pics/sheets/leakingtranny.pdf
#9
Started messing with it today, here's the deal.
The locking cap screw was gone, locking tab broken and super nut came off with my fingers, causing the leak.
I pulled the main seal, spacer, o-ring and small seal from drive gear.
Don't see any damage except for the key on main shaft, have two on the way already though.
The locking cap screw was gone, locking tab broken and super nut came off with my fingers, causing the leak.
I pulled the main seal, spacer, o-ring and small seal from drive gear.
Don't see any damage except for the key on main shaft, have two on the way already though.
#10