Getting started on my Delkron Stroker - see pics - is an 88" motor - S&S wheels but that is all I know at the start of this rebuild - I have some work to do - some head repair including fixing broke fins - I'll have to rebuild the heads since one of the intakes was leaking down oil into the chamber - this tells me that the valves need to be cut although I noticed the pushrods were tight so maybe things wont be as bad as I think - bike has solid lifters - was told it is all Andrews and Jims internals - who knows - will get this up on my motor stand tomorrow and get into the cam chest and oil pump - this motor is going into an old Jammer hardtail frame - bores are shiny - maybe I should hone the cylinders and re-ring the pistons??? They are S&S so the stuff is gonna be expensive - any input appreciated

 

the black color around the gasket area of the one head is the thing was leaking compression passed the gasket NOT that much but would have gotten worse over time, what i see is the threads in the heads are rusty and more then likely the bolts are as well attention is needed
Tip - get a bottoming 7/16 fine tap Has to be a bottoming tap 3 or 4 flute would do a grat job and clean the threads holes after glass beading real well in the wash tank with the fluid running
those are the later O Ring heads the valve guides can cause a oil leak you need to know before cleaning them so you dont end up with the same issue once its back together, if in fact the head to guide is the cause not the valve seal or lack of one
The pistons by the color and design looks to be S&S - its probably got a S&S 514 cam you did not show the valve springs soo ????

 

pics of the valve train will follow - I know the history of the motor - it was built by a well known shop (Kokesh) in Spring Lake Park MN in the late 80's - all high end components -Delkron cases date to that period but Delkron did not keep the early records of their cases - I talked with them - Also talked to S&S and verified the wheels as theirs and said it is an 88" wheel set - as for the heads - I have to weld repair two top fins plus the rear exhaust stud is helicoiled to 3/8-16 and is loose - so I may as well weld repair the exhaust stud hole as well - both top motor mount holes in the heads are egged out - probably do a bigsert there - I never saw the bike when it was running but I was told it was a monster - it was in a hardtail chopper in Northeast Minneapolis

 

here are the springs and collars - you can also see the egged top mount hole and 3/8 helicoil bulging in the exhaust stud hole - I'll have to bake the head and weld up the exhaust stud and re-machine it - I'll do an insert or helicoil in the top mount hole

 

Depending on you financial situation, I wouldn't waste any money on those heads and cylinders. Put them on the shelf and get S&S heads and cylinders. The S&S items will handle the pressures of a stroker motor a lot better than those wore out items. After the cost of the repairs and rebuild, you won't be too far away from the cost of new items. S&S heads out of the box will perform and flow better than the best flow work you can put on stockers. Out of the box, bolt up.
You said all of this is going into a Jammer frame. Blast that thing and check ALL of the welds. Then you can paint or powdercoat it. I suggest powdercoat.
You might as well take a look inside of that transmission. Being a stroker, it was probably thrashed pretty hard.
Good luck on your restoration. Done right you'll have a nice scoot.

 

you do not have S&S springs and retainers you have the standard HI performance spring set with the alloy top collars USUALLY they are good for .600 lift but you need to check that

AL is right about the S&S stuff but it depends on your money and what you can get done for the difference in the money. Having the heads completely checked out and eval the cost is first on the list

 

I'll check the spring height - the rear head exhaust guide is egged and needs to be replaced - since I do not know the correct spring height for this setup I'll have to rely on the current height as my measurement for shimming once the valves are cut - I do not have a spring pressure gauge so I'll have to do it this way - has a Sifton 117 Cam - pics below - 2nd lobe has a grey line worn in but it is not dug up or scored so I'll run it - can I run hydraulics with the 117????????????????

 

I think with a motor that big, I would run a Leinwebber L-61. Excellent mid and upper range. Not so on the low end, but manageable. Unfortunately, that is more cam than those heads can handle. If you are going to run that big stroker, run it like you are going to race it. Stay with the solids. You are going to have to set up the compression ratio to be able to kick start it, even with compression releases, and the fuel available to get the most out of it unless someone is following you around with a truck load of C12 racing fuel and a plug in outboard starter. I see a Super D in your life to feed that beast. Remember, A shovel that big has a low reliability life.

 

117 cam i believe

>485 lift - 32 -- 58 -- 56 -- 30 = 270 / 268 duration - its a top end cam and NOT a hyd cam

 

found the first major problem - front piston was chipped up underneath - found a piece of iron in the breather - not sure where it came from but it nicked up the front piston and found its way to the breather - these are S&S pistons - 3 1/2" - guess I need to replace the pistons - would like to identify the chip that was rattling around in there