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Clutch plates for a four speed shovel

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Old 07-31-2016, 10:31 PM
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Default Clutch plates for a four speed shovel

Have a buddy that bought a 4 speed 80 superglide that needed some TLC took it to a indy shop and when he got it back im finding he got fn robbed!
Needed a new carb so they put SnS (B) carb carb on it with WRONG not even close to fitting filter, a cover off a SnS (a) carb that only two freaking bolts would bolt up n then not even go tight.
He is NO mechanic and my wrenching consists of if I don't have the manual or a harley Guru over my shoulder to show me the first time I don't do it till I can get one or the other!
Yesturday we were riding and his primary stated smoking like a chimney and no grab. I trailer it to the house to find three bolts on bottom of primary GONE as well as all the oil and all the rest finger tight! Clutch adjustment was not even close to right.
My question is can someone point me to the proper clutch kit in Jnp or Dennis Kirk or someplace so we have a idea how much he looking to spend?
I'm learning and wrenching mostly myself on my twin cam but internal on a shovel is a little far back for me, I've never looked for parts on one (YET)
 
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Old 08-01-2016, 10:37 AM
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My guess to get that bike back to running reliably it's going to cost you at a minimum, several hundreds dollars worth of parts. I bought a set of Barnett clutch fiber disks for my bike and I think they were between $40-$80 (guessing). In the process of replacing them, I found all sorts of issues with the bike that wound up costing much much more. You need to find out if that bike has the stock clutch setup or if it was converted to a wet clutch.


However; you also have carb issues and that's just what you know about right now. It's going to take an enormous investment in time and effort to learn about that bike. You ought to get a factory service and factory parts manual right off the bat. Tear into the primary and learn all you can about it and what needs to be purchased before you go buying anything. I would also pay the indy a visit and find out why he thought the bike needed a new carb. Maybe try to find the stock one, probably in his parts pile.

Parts are fairly easy to find on the internet but you sometimes have to dig. If you're willing to put in the time, that old girl will be fun to ride.

carl
 
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Old 08-01-2016, 10:42 AM
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I can tell you that you probably have a late [E or G] air cleaner cover on that B if only 2 screws line up...
Tells me that whoever has been touching it, needs to stop...
Yer gonna need someone who really does Know about what they are doing, to get over that one, if the rest of the Bike reflects that Knowledge level...

Clutch Parts are probably the very least of your worries...a very Poor clutch can still be adjusted to at least ride the Bike...
They are much tougher than one might think...


Edit again;
How bout a pic of the clutch...such as it is...
 

Last edited by Racepres; 08-01-2016 at 10:49 AM.
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Old 08-01-2016, 12:11 PM
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I'm going to talk to the local Guru n see if I can borrow a manual off him.
I'll try for a photo tonight but how do I tell wet clutch from dry? The cable was WAY out of adjustment I can tell ya that.
The carb was (the stock carb is **** that's why it won't run right)
From listening to what went on during phone conversations with the guys in the shop there it sounds to me that they wanted to buy it and he wouldn't sell so they slapped **** together and sent him on his way thinking he was to dumb to notice (didn't figure on his friends not being stupid)
The shop needs to get the smoke out of their heads while they at work I do know that. I'm hearing other horror story's coming out now to!
 
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Old 08-01-2016, 04:24 PM
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Just because most folks won't take the time to learn to tune the Carb...don't make the Carb "****"
I have one that works extremely well....
 
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Old 08-01-2016, 04:28 PM
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Oh I agree! Like I said I think they kept stringing him along to see how much he would give them or just sell them the bike!
 
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Old 08-01-2016, 06:12 PM
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that is an old trick to con someone out of a bike - un adjust everything install worn out parts and the same problem with a different feel

go someplace else if they are trying to buy the bike
 
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by hobo1
Have a buddy that bought a 4 speed 80 superglide that needed some TLC took it to a indy shop and when he got it back im finding he got fn robbed!
Needed a new carb so they put SnS (B) carb carb on it with WRONG not even close to fitting filter, a cover off a SnS (a) carb that only two freaking bolts would bolt up n then not even go tight.
He is NO mechanic and my wrenching consists of if I don't have the manual or a harley Guru over my shoulder to show me the first time I don't do it till I can get one or the other!
Yesturday we were riding and his primary stated smoking like a chimney and no grab. I trailer it to the house to find three bolts on bottom of primary GONE as well as all the oil and all the rest finger tight! Clutch adjustment was not even close to right.
My question is can someone point me to the proper clutch kit in Jnp or Dennis Kirk or someplace so we have a idea how much he looking to spend?
I'm learning and wrenching mostly myself on my twin cam but internal on a shovel is a little far back for me, I've never looked for parts on one (YET)

These things are not rocket science to work on.

1. The carb. I would try to get the stock carb back. Properly set up, they worked fine. S&S units were a popular switch in the day but many folks didn't have them set up correctly. From what you've said about this mechanic, I would be skeptical. If you keep the S&S, at least get the proper cover and make sure the filter is properly seated.

2. Smoking primary. Sounds like this bike was converted to sealed primary with its own oil filled inside. This was another popular mod in the day. Stock, they came with an oil feed line to lube the primary (inside) chain and a return suction line to return the primary case oil to the tank. This worked fine but, over time, you could have all the debris from your wearing clutch plates sucked back into the main oil tank. A well maintained oil filter was essential.

So, people removed the oiler line and the suction line to the primary and poured about a quart of oil in there to lube the chain in its own oil bath. It is the same set-up currently used by H-D on their new bikes.

If this conversion is made, the stock clutch plates needed to be changed out for plates designed to work with more oil on them, wet clutch plates, since the oil bath would tend to expose the plates to more oil than the old system that sucked oil away from the primary.

If that primary went dry and got hot enough to smoke, the clutch plates may still be okay but the chain may very well have been damaged by excessive wear from not having lubrication. Check the play on the chain. I am sure you'll need to adjust it, maybe replace it.

Also check the sprocket teeth for bad wear. They are probably ok.

On the clutch plates, check them as well. Check the fiber plates for glazing and wear and the metal plates for warpage.

I do not like the Barnett clutch plates. They seem too grabby for my tastes. I would go for one of the many other options out there.

Get a manual or follow directions on how to prepare the plates for installation. Most advise a little pre-oiling. Pay attention to installing the metal plates and get them positioned so the spring ***** on them are on the trailing edge. Keep the "out" label out.

.
 

Last edited by leafman60; 08-04-2016 at 07:42 AM.
  #9  
Old 08-04-2016, 08:31 AM
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I never oil Clutch disks on a Shovelhead....Clean and Dry regardless of the Chain oiling system.
 
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Old 08-04-2016, 09:40 AM
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One more important thing about that primary. If it got so hot smoke was coming out, take a really really really hard look at the primary chain adjusting shoe. If it's partially melted or has any type of heat damage at all, replace it before you start the bike up. I've seen what a primary looks like if the chain grabs the adjusting shoe. Picture a grenade in there.


carl
 


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