Strongly agree... plugs many cases can be telling of internals.

 

the plug may or may not show some damage.

By by removing the primary chain you have separated trans from engine. By turning them separately you will know for certain this is engine or a trans issue.

if it locked up as you described kicking it over will likely still be locked up.

 

I had a valve drop in my very old v-12 and it actually blew the spark plug ceramic out of the plug hole, but left the metal part. When the plug comes out look for any impact marks or a bent electrode. It may have been hit or not. you can rent a scope camera and and take a look inside it is a cool thing.
This is an extreme device, but it will give you a cool idea of what we mean by borescope.

 

post up pictures what you find - lots of help on this site as well as the other

most can walk you through the process but special tools will be the thing to get you

if i were to guess -- you said you serviced it -- you would not be the first guy to use the hose on the oil pump to drain the tank and if this is the case - you ended up with an air pocket > that stopped all the oil from going into the engine and the crank pin has seized not a novas job -- i hope this is not the issue but its one that play out if it is

 

Being in Germany getting hands-on help and possibly parts and tools is gonna be a PITA!!! I already brought a CLYMERS MANUAL and HD FL/FX MANUAL 78 1/2 - 84, a clutch puller, and many big sockets for the nuts in the primary, sprocket gears, seals, and crap like that, with me to Germany from the States last time i was back!

I didnt plan on this happening so soon, it was only the Second time I rode it yesterday being the First!!! RAN REAL NICE THO!!! SMOOTH, IM STILL IN SHOCK. I gotta add before I shipped it over here I had the valves and rings done on it from a shop in States. I have the receipt somewhere. But its only a little hand written thing with not much info anyway.

Its late night in Germany now tomorrow morning I will try to get the bike on a jack and try to figure out what I can and get back to YOU ALL!!! I SURE APPRECIATE THE CAMARADERIE here!!!

 

As others have said, you need to eliminate several areas to focus on where the problem actually is. It's going to most likely be top end, cam chest, bottom end or primary.Which pretty much covers the whole engine apart from the oil pump.

In order of easiness:

1) Pull the outer primary and check everything looks OK in there. If it does, then
2) Pull the plugs and see if you can get/borrow/steal a borescope (USB ones are about €5 from eBay). This will let you look into the cylinder heads and see anything obviously wrong in there. If this all looks OK then
3)Pull the heads and rocker boxes - check all that. If that looks OK then
4)Pull the cam cover and have a good look in there. If that still looks OK, then it's probably the bottom end that's gone which will be a big job to fix. But not the end of the world - just expensive.

But if it does sound like **** rattling around in the front cylinder, then that may well be what it is. Which would probably be a dropped valve of something along those lines. Probably looking at a new head, cylinder, piston, valves etc....depending on the actual damage.

Sorry I can't be more positive, but these motors can be put back together again even after major damage.

 

with this history on the engine gives me the feeling you may just find the trouble in the primary case. Plugs look first but then oil drain primary may tell of an issue with that. I mention this due to the sudden lock up.
let us know.

 

I jacked up the back tire, put it in gear and i can not turn the tire in either direction. Pulled a plug and it looks fine, tannish looks alittle darker in pic below. Opened the primary and everything in there also looks fine. Was strapped for time today but tomorrow i will diagnose if its the motor or the tranny,,,Gosh darnit does this mean its none of the simple stuff?

Here Primary side (OPEN), front spark plug, and Im also wondering, since my oil catcher dont have a top on it can it create a air bubble in the motor somehow and be the cause of why she broke? Its plugged to the bottem back right side of motor.

P.s. I will also check into one of those Ebay cameras so I can look inside the cylinder. $5 only really?

 

oops accidenally posted twice...

 

Think next step would be to get it into neutral and with rear wheel off the ground, determine if you can get the rear wheel to turn.


"Oil catcher"? So is that line going to the can the one for the crankcase breather. If so the the answer would be no. On a stock motor the crankcase breather line usually runs down below and along the right lower part of the frame.