I dont get it every time i engage the starter it stays engaged until i remove the neg. battery cable. I have tried everything i can think of. The starter is a prestolite any suggestions?

 

Theonly thing that engages the starter is the solenoid which is energized by the starter button, if you verified the starter button isn't sticking and the soleniod is losing power once the button is released, I wouldchange the solenoid first followed by replacing thestarter's bendixsince if it has been sticking/engaging a while you could have damaged the bendix on it.

 

If your battery voltage is low, the starter solenoid will "weld" the contacts and stick. make sure your battery is full up, and replace the solenoid. (make sure you do not have power on the solenoid trigger wire. after the button is released.)

 

Crampfan is right. Sounds like you have a bad solenoid. It's not uncommon for old shovel style solenoids to build up enough slag to short itself, therebykeeping the starting circuit close. Especially if a person (like many of us,myself included)have the bad habit ofholding downthe starter button in hope that the engine will eventually start if only we can spin the motor over long enough. This in fact not only drain the battery faster, but could burn up the starter motor!

A new solenoid cost around $60, and a rebuild kit for about $20. If you can wait for a mail order, Jireh Cycles (877-681-0448) has a chromed Accel solenoid for $38 and a rebuild kit for about $10 (no I don't work for them. Just wanted to pass on a good deal). The rebuild kit comes with good instructions, and is relatively simple and straightforward if you're OK with a soldering iron.

Other things to check would be your ground strap. Make sure it's clean and tight on the frame, as well as all other electrical connections/connectors. Also, looks can bedeceiving when it comes to old wiring. They might look good on the outside, but can be rotten inside...sounds a lot like my ex-wife; yikes! If your battery is getting fairly up there in age, I would make sure that its cranking out enough amperage, especially under load. Even though the battery might register 12.5 volts on the voltmeter, it might be tired - it's not as much as the voltage, but the amount of current your battery can dish out that counts. Also, make sure nothing mechanical is binding with any of the starting circuit mechanisms. And double check that your ignition timing is correct. This plays a big part in whether your motor turns over easy or labors, sometimes to the point of not turning over at all.

Good luck.

 

Clean your "starter button" with electrical spray, some use 10W40 but I like the stuff made for switches.

put a paper towel under the control housing spray right into and around the button, (with the key off of course) then while in the key off position, push the starter button in and out approx 10 times to work it in.

If this doesn't work try theother suggestions.

Simple first,

Ride safe,

cj

Edit:

Damn, I forgot you have to "take off the battery cable" ? you mean the "kill switch" won't shut down the engine ??

Sorry I may have been too quick with an answer, not to your problem ?

When we encounter a still spinning drive, all you do was use the kill sw. then spray some elecro-motor cleaner into the button.

Wow, you have to take off the battery cable ??? really ?? never seen that ?

 

DISCONNECT the battery. Take the two screws out of the face of the solenoid and carefully move it to the side. Pull out the plunger with the big looking washer on it. Remove the "C" clip, flip the washer over, replace the clip and put everything back together. When you replace the two screws in the face, don't overtighten them. This will take 20 minutes and a cold beer. Bring your battery up to full charge and give it a try.
If you still have the factory kill switch on your right handlebar, diconnect the starter curcuit from it. Look in your FACTORY manual to see which wire it is. What you you are doing this for is to get the motor spinning without a load, then turn the switch on to fire it. You are manually doing what electronic ignitions are already doing, two or three revs before the ignition activates.
You can do what most of us have done. Pull the electric starter off, put it in a box, and kick it. No more E.S. problems!

 

Bad Bendix, maybe? Happens to shovels.

 

I'll be you 5 bucks its the relay. But I tend to agree w/ alcherry.Unless youve got 2 broke legs, who needs the xtra weight?

 

Look for a frayed wire too, could possibly be grounding out, Relay could be bad but normally wont energize which would give you the opposite affect. Just my .02

 

What's all this chatter 'bout kickstartin'? You guys kick start your shovels? That's what I keep the p pad on the fender for. That's where the starter rides. And if she won't kick it, just taze her. Then you have electric start. JUST KIDDING!!!!!! Please don't shoot!!! All are great suggestions. One more, up here (Mn) when things get cool as they sometimes do, I have experienced solenoid hang up when it is cool (hell, cold) out. Take off solenoid, spray it with brake cleaner (cuts oil very well and leaves no residue), replace, and go. Oil gets up in there and then gets very stiff when cold. (Unlike the starter on the p pad)