OK I just put in a new Barnett clutch in the ole girl (79 FXEF) adjusted it and I am getting good power to the ground. Here is the thing that is giving me a pain[:@]. It is hard to get her into neutral when she is running. No power she goes right into neutral kick her over and she kicks my ****....ideas????!!!!

 

The usual suspect is the clutch not releasing fully, as I'm sure you are aware. There is probably nothing wrong inside the transmission. You do have sufficient oil in the transmission, right?
There are multiple reasons for it; not enough clutch pushrod travel, hub not running true on the mainshaft, fiber disc on the clutch hub loose, clutch hub bearing worn/sloppy, steel disc hanging up on clutch basket lugs, clutch fiber discs hanging up on "notched" pins, if it's a wet clutch perhaps the wrong primary lube, pressure plate "cocked," there's more but I am tired and can't think of anything else. If you are using the stock type hub and basket, you could try the long bearings (Big Fix), and/or the products that hold the basket from walking out from the hub (Jeez, I can't think of the name of 'em right now). Sometimes running the primary chain as loose as you can without hitting the primary case will help (if you aren't running a belt drive).
I'm certain somebody will post the names of the clutch basket retainers I can't remember and offer other suggestions.
Oh yeah, Ram Jett is one of the retainers (it's just a plastic plate with adjustment for axial clearance on the clutch basket).
What type of Barnett clutch are you using?

 

Make sure the pressure plate springs are torqued the the same tention, if one is off the plate will not pull (release) evenly and may be the issue ............check all of the above as well. Good luck!!!!

 

Meag/Indaupeh
I think you found it. (Was a late one last night.)
I gave the push rod about another turn and a half found one of the adjusting screws was a thread shorter then the other 2. So I even those out and gave them each 1 more click and she seems to be OK on the stand going for a test ride now

 

Is your clutch releasing toward the lever travel? If it isn't tighten the clutch rod adjusting screw alittle more

 

Mega, The actual clutch is the Barnett HDP-5EPK (the one with the extra disk and steel plate)
OK seemed to work much better on the test run. A damn sight better then what she was doing last night at 10:00pm. And I kinda like this new clutch, but then again I was runnin an old glazed up POS so anything has gotta be better. Going to stretch her legs latter on today once I get some java down me. Too many barley pops last night trying to figure this thing out[sm=icon_guiness.gif]
Thanks to all Later

 

I have been running the clutch tamer and have had good success with the set up for holding the clutch basket where it belongs. The clutch release push rod and clutch cable both needs to have some play in both {I'm sure you knew this} There is a gauge I see offered to measure the distance from the pressure plate to the spring retainer to correctly set the spring pressure. I don't have one what I do after I get the nuts set close I pull the clutch lever and slowly kick the start lever over and observe the end of the clutch hub spring retainer to see how true everything is running and adjust if needed.
Not very scientific but has worked for me for years.
One other thing to check is the alignment of trans in relationship to the engine if the belt or chain is not running true this will pull the hub and not be desirable.
Enjoy those new clutches!
one other thing I forgot to mention if the engine idle is to high this will cause it hard for me to find neutral.

 

To all I think we are there thanks for all the help. Now one more question. Does anyone run the Super B any more? I think mine is about at the end of its life and I am thinking of going to the Super E or G. Just thought I would get some more advise.

 

you want to run the super E not G.

have you checked your throw-out bearing? - if it is crappy you will have a hard time finding nuetral

also you need to break your clutches in...... you know what i mean?

edit- also you do not want to adjust the clutch pushrod without putting all the slack in the cable first. you need to keep the pressure off the throwout bearing or it will fatigue (run the pushrod in till it seats and back off about 1/8 to 1/4 turn) then adjust the cable freeplay. the cable is just for freeplay adjustment.

 

Tooth
Thanks, the clutch is(was) feeling better and was better at getting into neutral.
The carb has been acting up for awhile but I can't seem to get it leaned out, and I fouled a couple of sets of plugs. She has been a good ole girl but me thinks it's time she moved on. Thanks on the advice and help.
I love this shi&t[sm=smiley35.gif]