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Old 12-14-2012, 02:52 PM
jfsgb jfsgb is offline
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Default Torque cones

Hi guys i run my shovel with open drag pipes with the usual mid range power loss are torque cones a gimmick or will they help ? your input is much appreciated !
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:06 PM
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Default Torque cones

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Hi guys i run my shovel with open drag pipes with the usual mid range power loss are torque cones a gimmick or will they help ? your input is much appreciated !
Yes, they will help if you're running an open exhaust without baffles. They break up
the reversion wave that comes back up the pipe. Look for stainless ones.
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Old 12-14-2012, 03:59 PM
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that's funny... I was just looking at them today on ebay
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Old 12-14-2012, 04:34 PM
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Hi guys i run my shovel with open drag pipes with the usual mid range power loss are torque cones a gimmick or will they help ? your input is much appreciated !

Most dyno tests show torque cones don't work...but lollipops do.

http://www.nrhsperformance.com/tech_arcones.shtml

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/exhaust.htm
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Old 12-14-2012, 05:40 PM
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the cones are at the head-- they keep the heat in the engine-- "they do not work"

now i use these and have excellent results with drag pipes -- its a finisher cone off of a 2001 honda prelude -- Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 12-14-2012, 05:42 PM
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it has a anti reversion chamber inside-- i found them by accident-- when installed it give you that desired bottom end back + mid range -- Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 12-14-2012, 05:43 PM
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heres a bike with the lolli pops (washer on a bolt)Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 12-14-2012, 05:52 PM
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I ran my Dyna on a dyno years ago both with and without torque cones. There was no appreciable difference in the torque or horsepower curves either way.
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Old 12-14-2012, 08:14 PM
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I ran my Dyna on a dyno years ago both with and without torque cones. There was no appreciable difference in the torque or horsepower curves either way.
Wouldn't be much on yours , the old shovels need a bit of back pressure to flow right . Completely different combustion chamber , head configuration & flow characteristics between shovel the later evo's & twinkies . The old bolt & washer lollipop like Tom mentioned works the best on shovel straights .
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:55 AM
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I'm truly suprised that the English gov't will allow you to run open. I thought they were pretty tough on that stuff.
If you are running a stock, or near stock motor, up to 93", you will get more out of your motor with a somewhat restricted system. Look at hustlers or twisted's exhaust.They got it right.
I've always been a big fan of the SuperTrapp 2into1 system that you can add diffuser plates for less restriction, take the plates away for more restriction. You can tune the exhaust to your motor. And it sounds great. And the neighborhood whiners don't snivel.
The problem with open drags is that people run the wrong diameter, and length. For a shovel, 1 3/4" pipe and 39 to 39 1/2" long. The length is the key. You can buy the 1 3/4 all day long, but dyno time dictates how long YOUR bike wants it.
After 93", open stepped exhaust ,1 3/4 to 2 1/4" diameter, and up to 39 1/2" long works. One has to assume that if you have the larger stroker motors, you had it professionally done, a G carb or equivalent, reworked heads and associated cam and a 10:1 compression +/-. Your builder should also know how to make, or where to buy, the proper exhaust.
Exhaust opinions are like oil opinions. These are where I got my best results. I am a big dyno fan. I'm fortunate that my builder knows how to tune, and build. It gives you a edge.
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Last edited by AlCherry; 12-15-2012 at 05:24 AM..
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:55 AM
 
 
 
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