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Hardtail frame identification????

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Old 02-17-2014, 12:09 PM
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Default Hardtail frame identification????

I bought a frame out of an old barn along with a 76 HD Super glide,, the only markings on the frame are on the neck,, DPO is all it says. The neck length (where the stem would go through)is 5''5/8 long. I am sorry for the vague question but it is all I have to go off of and am hoping to get lucky,,, Any info or links to info would be great. I tried uploading a pic but that's not working either,,, thanks in advance.
 
Attached Thumbnails Hardtail frame identification????-img_0760-1-.jpg  

Last edited by Mill908; 02-17-2014 at 12:58 PM.
  #2  
Old 02-17-2014, 12:13 PM
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Try uploading the picture to photobucket and linking it to your post.
 
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:59 PM
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Sorry the pics upside down but at least I got it there I guess
 
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:03 AM
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It appears to have started life as a Harley frame but it has definitely been stretched in the front legs. The neck angle has also been changed. It was someones chopper project. It will hold any big twin motor, Pan, Knuckle or Shovel and probably evo and a 4 speed transmission. It looks like it has the crossover tube for the 36 to 57 mechanical brakes. You would have to get a builders title to put any 70 and later motor in it. Pre 70 the title was on the motor.
 
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Old 02-18-2014, 12:16 AM
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Smile Build it or sell it.

Looks like a fun project, definetly old school. I would have it Magna fluxed to find any cracks, you don't know how good the welder was and you don't want it coming apart on the road.
If you aren't interested, put it on Ebay, somebody might buy it.

I'd buy it if I was into another build, I love choppers!
 
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Old 02-18-2014, 02:53 PM
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Does anyone have a link so I can find the specs on measurements for the motor/tranny mounting I have a pile of books that I have started to look through but no luck yet and being computer retarded is not making the googleing any faster.

Welding is what I do for a living so going over it with a fine tooth comb and testing it wont be an issue, this is only my second build and I am by no means an expert but I think this will be fun in the long run. Since it has already been messed with I am gonna put my own "twist to it" cant afford an Indian Larry frame but 2 twisted down tubes gotta be better then one.

Any tips or useful links would be great.
 
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:25 PM
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Thumbs up Go for it, you won't regret is!

My frame on the chopper is a 1 off fab. I am a retired mech designer. In '95 I designed the frame on CAD and had it fabricated by American Heliarc in Houston. I ended up carefully measuring a known good evo frame. That worked out well. If you are not used to precision measuring, get real friendly with a machinist, they are used to this kind of stuff.

I'm glad you are considering a build. Building my chopper has been an all time great event in my life. My masterpiece.





 
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:43 PM
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when i was younger i seen the open neck done a few times and they always cracked, to me it was the heat needed to remove the center weakened it

just my take -- johnjzjz
 
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Old 02-19-2014, 12:37 AM
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Wink Hardtails Rule!

Originally Posted by johnjzjz
when i was younger i seen the open neck done a few times and they always cracked, to me it was the heat needed to remove the center weakened it

just my take -- johnjzjz
I agree, when I was in school I cut out the neck web for a buddy w/oxy/acet torch. He finished it out real nice with files and rode for the few years I knew him. It was the ones who cut the web, then cut the lower beam to rake it (1/2" gap 40*, 3/4" gap 45*), welded in a slug and rode.
Usually broke on the first wheelie, got pounded back in line and plates welded on each side of the neck. The cast iron heated up real good and could be worked and welded without cracking or heat stressing if annealed properly. The plates made it plenty strong and also made a nice smooth neck area.

In my case, the frame was designed from the ground up as an open neck. It's lasted for 18 yrs and 2 major accidents without a single crack or misalignment. It's also 3/16" wall DOM tubing, normal frames are 1/8" wall. It's proven bulletproof over the years (If a little heavy).

 
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
when i was younger i seen the open neck done a few times and they always cracked, to me it was the heat needed to remove the center weakened it

just my take -- johnjzjz
After breaking the neck once and the backbone twice on stretched frames I will not let anyone mess with the neck area unless it's to add steel not take it away . You wanna play that game take to someone else .
 

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