Hi all,

I'm new to the forum and I just inherited my Grandfathers 75 FLH and I'm having some difficulty. My uncle, who was the previous owner told me that the check ball was stuck in the oil pump so if you fire it up after a minute or two the oil starts coming out all of the seals, etc. He said I just need to take the screw cap off and fish the ball out. So I have been trying to do just that. Except I can't for the life of me get that cap off. At this point I've started to tear up the cap.

So I was wondering if anyone has a fool proof trick for getting it off. I've removed the air cleaner and support so that I have a clear shot. I've tried tapping it with a hammer, I've even tried tightening it

The only other option I can think of is to remove the pump, but I'd rather not go that route if I don't have to.

Thanks for the help!

 

your check ball is not stuck!what the check ball does is keep the oil in the oil tank win it is parked,so go to the parts store and buy you a couple quarts of 20w50 oil go to the house and make sure your oil tank is full now get you a catch pan put it under neth your bike and fire it up,it is going to spit some oil out [but after a couple secondr it will stop]maybe 15-25 seconds it will stop and win you park it for long perods of time it will do it ever time it is a old harley (win you do get the cap off be carfeful there is a spring in there to get you a small magnet to get the spring and the ball baring out win you do get you some cotton swabs and some carb cleaner and clean it out and put it back together and go and buy you a manuel if you do not have one i ride a 81 shovel i no what you are going threw good luck

 

Hey thanks for the help! Ill try running it longer like you said but the o il isn't coming out the breather. Its pushing out the seal between the parts of the oil pump. It is also coming out between the seal of the aftermarket oil filter. Like the whole system has to much pressure. After reading about the check valve I was thinking it was stuck shut. If that happened the oil would never get to the pressure regulating valve, so the pressure would just keep climbing., right?

Anyway that was my theory.

 

this may sound stupid but if the bike sat in a barn -shead out side, durt dobers can be a pain in the *** get underneth and stick you a wire are somthing in the breather tube it may be cloged up or you may have a bad line i would pull the lines and make sure they are clear the oil filter could also be plugged up to

 

^^you type it as u say it like me : ^^


http://tonisglamourshack.blogspot.co.uk

 

I found that if I grind a screwdriver to exactly fit the plug cap and attach a wrench to the handle, by pushing down as you turn the wrench you can break it free. If you can't find a screw driver that big, grind the end of a tire iron into a screw driver point and attach a pair of vice grips. An exact, parallel fit in the slot is important or you will bugger up the slot.

Most old Shovelheads ran 60 or 70 weight oil in the summer. If it is cool out they will produce a lot of oil pressure until the oil thins out as it warms. The oil pressure will drop from 30 or more on startup down to almost nothing as it heats.

 

a light tap on the screw cap 1/2 OZ hammer helps to un seat the screw as they get stuck

 

That is a great idea FilthyLucre. I'll keep that in mind for next time. I was able to get it with an impact screwdriver that I borrowed from a friend at work. Johnjzjz I tried tapping it with a hammer before but it didn't seem to work. Even after I got it loose with the impact it was still a little stiff to turn in spots.

I would like to replace the oil pump check valve cap with a new one, but that has a hex head or an allen head. Do you guys know if there is an aftermarket cap available like that?

So now it seems to run pretty well, but the accelerator pump doesn't seem to be working. I think I can replace the plunger without even taking the carb off the bike.

 

I would replace the stock oil hose for new rubber.

 

colony is the only company with a quality part -

The large nut top part number is 8700-2 - OEM # 26377-68 the screw one is 9607-2 -- 1968 to 1980

the smaller one as a nut is 8702-2 - the screw is 9523-1 -- 1936 to 1980