Poor braking
#1
Poor braking
I replaced the duel front rotors and the rear rotor on my 1982 FXRS with zink coated steel drilled rotors. Ever since, the braking on the front is really poor while the rear seems fine. I've taken the pads off and sanded them thinking they got a glaze on them and sanded the rotors but no difference. There seems to be almost no real wear on the front rotors while the rear definately shows the pads have worn into the metal some and smoothed out the original machining marks. I don't remember what kind of new pads I put in but they are nothing special. What have I done wrong?
#2
#3
semi-metallic --- http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-SEMI-M...854e4b&vxp=mtr ---
also get rid of that 10' rear and move up to the 11.5 -- with this set up you need 100% metallic pads
--- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-David...869295&vxp=mtr --- I would get a new caliper --
this is the set up I have with metallic pads -- no fade -- stops excellent
Product Description
Semimetallic brake pads offer a pad in between both the sintered and organic brake pads
Perfect choice for polished or chromed rotors and recommended for use with Billet Steel Rotors for best results
also get rid of that 10' rear and move up to the 11.5 -- with this set up you need 100% metallic pads
--- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-David...869295&vxp=mtr --- I would get a new caliper --
this is the set up I have with metallic pads -- no fade -- stops excellent
Product Description
Semimetallic brake pads offer a pad in between both the sintered and organic brake pads
Perfect choice for polished or chromed rotors and recommended for use with Billet Steel Rotors for best results
Last edited by biginchhustler; 04-12-2014 at 06:10 AM.
#4
Thanks
I ordered the new pads you recommended on ebay; will see what happens. It make sense that organic pads would work on iron and metalic on steel. The pads now are not wearing into the rotors. I do have the 11.5" rear rotor and that brake is fine. It's funny though, I don't think my rear caliper is aligned with the rotor as when I put on a new tire I swapped the pads because it looked like one was wearing down faster than the other but when I put the wheel back in they were out of align and had to wear back into line with the rotor and doesn't seem to be a problem other than a longer than normal pad break in.
#5
the rotor (disc) has to be spaced for correct alignment --- http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARLEY-SPORT...8d976a&vxp=mtr ---
it moves the rotor away from the wheel and centers it -- with the old banana type caliper I had to make shims (spacer) that goes behind the brake pad as the caliper isn't the best design -- the addition of spacers behind the pad makes for a rear brake that you don't have to pump and I use ONLY these pads
--- http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-S...3D261224164906 ---
the brake rotor you have is more than likely made from this --- "high carbon content 400 series (martensitic) stainless steel" or "420 stainless". -- takes longer to seat and has to have sintered pads
it moves the rotor away from the wheel and centers it -- with the old banana type caliper I had to make shims (spacer) that goes behind the brake pad as the caliper isn't the best design -- the addition of spacers behind the pad makes for a rear brake that you don't have to pump and I use ONLY these pads
--- http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-REAR-S...3D261224164906 ---
the brake rotor you have is more than likely made from this --- "high carbon content 400 series (martensitic) stainless steel" or "420 stainless". -- takes longer to seat and has to have sintered pads
Last edited by biginchhustler; 04-12-2014 at 06:06 AM.
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