Fork seals 'n oil...time to fix
#11
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Along the shoreline in SE CT, and SW FL
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Guessing a flexible hose that will fit snugly...and squeeze a bottle to push the oil uphill right? And remove hose and put in the screw quickly before she spills out?
#12
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Location: Along the shoreline in SE CT, and SW FL
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Whelp...didn't go well, rode her over Saturday morning. Got the left fork off OK...redid the main outer seal. Didn't pull out the inner remaining guts that was still attached to the upper part of the fork, only the large diameter lower fork.
Bushing seemed OK...seemed tight enough for me.
Right side...ugh. The 6mm screw on the bottom...could tell the prior owner had taken them out ...didn't use loctite but something that was clear/tan in color. Looked like shellac or something that you finish marine wood with. I had a feeling the allen hex was gonna pop and strip..and sure enough, she popped out and rounded the inside. Had even used a torch 'n put heat on her...nada.
So had to drill her out...which put a slight counter sink to the aluminum surface of the lower fork. So the copper washer likely can't seal well. So gonna mill it down a hair to get the shoulders flat.
Bushing seemed OK...seemed tight enough for me.
Right side...ugh. The 6mm screw on the bottom...could tell the prior owner had taken them out ...didn't use loctite but something that was clear/tan in color. Looked like shellac or something that you finish marine wood with. I had a feeling the allen hex was gonna pop and strip..and sure enough, she popped out and rounded the inside. Had even used a torch 'n put heat on her...nada.
So had to drill her out...which put a slight counter sink to the aluminum surface of the lower fork. So the copper washer likely can't seal well. So gonna mill it down a hair to get the shoulders flat.
Last edited by YeOldeStonecat; 07-21-2014 at 09:39 AM.
#13
They were likely coated with lock-tight … believe that is what the manual calls for. Easiest way I’ve found is to disassemble it all is on a bench with the lower fork held in a vise. Get an extended 6mm allen wrench with a 3/8 drive socket end fitting. Then a short 3/8 breaker bar with a sharp hammer hit works like an impact. Once all apart you can wash away all that nasty old fork oil. Also allows you to add the exact amount of fluid when reassembling.
#14
Join Date: Oct 2010
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Got her back together this afternoon. Since I didn't take the cowling off (around headlamp area)...just filled the lower forks with 8 oz and shoved 'em up...holding that allen screw in on the bottom with a blob of silicon. Screwed it up there quickly without getting much but a fingers drip worth.
Rode most of the afternoon...seemed good.
Now to work on the damned chatter of that dang banana caliper brake. Hate it. That felt pad 'tween it and the fork flattened bad.
Thanks for the input everyone...appreciated.
I owe everyone a few virtual beers!
Rode most of the afternoon...seemed good.
Now to work on the damned chatter of that dang banana caliper brake. Hate it. That felt pad 'tween it and the fork flattened bad.
Thanks for the input everyone...appreciated.
I owe everyone a few virtual beers!
#15
They made a couple of different vibration dampers. 41768-73 is a sheet metal spring clip that fits over the two pivot pins and bears against the slider. Another one was a hair pin type spring that attached to the front of the caliper and the other arm rested on the axle. It is similar to the one they made for the rear brake but bent slightly different.
Last edited by FilthyLucre; 07-24-2014 at 12:24 AM.
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