Hi temp paint to keep the color. So far no cracking for me. Rust is inevitable, no matter if you seal the wrap with paint or not, moisture is going to get in and with the heat, rust will come.

 

Well I had the time to open the primary to take a look at the compensator. Found the snap ring that holds the chain tensioner has been getting caught in the ring gear/chain most likely causing my hard start/backlash issue. Pretty effed up. Been good since I found it banged up and replaced it.

 

same thing for me. Pulled the seat and the zip tie had broken and my negative was touching the positive.

 

.
.

DB,

Can you post up some new/recent pics of your bike!?!

Looks great!

.
.

 

So how are you guys lowering the front of your bikes? I have a 23 up front and 18 rear. Are you guys doing the 2" progressive kit with the PVC and then using the shorter tubes? If so, does anyone have a link to where I could find a set? Thanks.

 

you can get some 2" shorter tubes off of ebay. I think I got mine for around $200 and it came with all new seals.

 

https://www.hdforums.com/g/picture/1887712

Reimaged for the wife, almost complete. Only things left, blackline dash to be powdered coated in wrinkle black, move the coil to where horn was, upholster the seat, install cables.

I loved the way I had set up for myself but when the misses, says you can have a street glide only if the train becomes mine and we change it up to fit me. You jump on it.

So I had to remove the apes, jockey shifter, and run out of money.lol

While removing the parts, decided to change up a few things, I have watched you all do here. Removed the center post, relocated the horn, installed a toggle switch instead of ignition switch, install blackline dash.

Since everything was apart, and realized a different speedo was going to be used, I cut the cables for speedo n dummy lights then realized that I needed to relocate the module for led lights instead of being crammed beside the battery. What a fun messy project. Moved the module into headlight bucket and rerun all the wires. I tried to crammed the module and horn first behind splash guard but after reinstalling everything, realized that won't work. So that all had to come back apart, the horn is now on the front down tubes.

While running the wires, created a short that drove me mad. Crappy solder jump, only to be found after tracing all the wires and making a mess, but all works now plus now I have a light for the tailight, even installed toggle switch so it doesn't have to be always on.

So anyway debating on going with a dukes of hazzard theme, being we loved the show, car color and with is from the outskirts of the real Hazard, Kentucky. Either the seat will be black or brownish worn leather color but tucked and rolled on top. Either the points or derby cover will be engraved with the number 01. On the rear fender, instead of general lee being airbrushed, it will have boars nest logo or something similar; being it's for the wife and that's where Daisy worked. The tank will be repainted to general lee color, biggest reason, to help stick out on the road. What you think, keep going down this road or slam on the brakes, make a turn to something else?

Oh n yeah, thinking about, cutting the big shots, right after the bend. Wrap from head to the remaining heat shield and probably powdercoated shield to gloss black if the chrome doesn't like the cut.

 

Custom cycle engineering is the company that makes there shorter tubes that sell on eBay. I bought a set. They do them in hard chrome or show chrome. HC last longer and has less friction. Google them, they have a website too.

22.25 inch 41mm Hard Chrome Fork Tubes part No. T2001HC for the hard chrome ones

 

Cool. The length was my next question. So 24 1/4 is the stock length and I would need the 22 1/4. Has anyone tried the monotube in the shorter tubes?

 

Correct 24 1/4 is stock length. I use the drop ins so I can't help you there sorry