My riding pard gave me the Street Glide fairing, complete with different shields and the leather HD cover and headlight. Custom shop up the street said I'd have to first cut out below the headlight to make the fairing drop down OVER my light, which makes me nervous due to the commitment, but I do wanna run my custom headlight with visor, and it's huge.
The only way I get it close to working in mockup is to set it up rather high and lean my bars way back where I don't want them. I'd have to cut out the lower 2" gauge holes to put my bars back up. Let me load some pics I took last night.
Using lower bolt hole tilts it forward:


Using the top hole, I get the headlight angle, but it seems too high:


Top hole from back - is this not crazy high? Using the lowest sheild, I can just see over it like a little blue haired lady over a steering wheel. It also may be a bit high for my headlight to center in:


Here you can see the interference where I had to lay the bars way back. I'm thinking of cutting into the gauge holes and shape them out to let the bars into that space and get my hands back up. I just removed the 4" risers and went back to stock:


I don't need or have all four gauges: I was faking one anyway (water temp). From the top of the handlebar clamp to the top of the dash is 10-1/2", from the clamp to top of radio nacelle is 4-1/2".

 

Bought an ebay knockoff and its the perfect size. Same as touring bikes. The brackets took a lot of modification to make fit but worth the effort. On colder days, having hand and arm pit protection is awesome! haha

 

Looks great; and you're way above the dash, which is what I'd sorta expected in mine, but went to Kaotic Customs after work and looked over a street glide up close: that thing measured only about 1/2" lower than my mockup.
I think I'm so used to looking thru a windshield, this thing is like looking at a wall in front of me. I have to wonder how it's gonna be like when working in the cones!

Tonight's experiments dealt with disconnecting the headlight and trying to get the spotlights up with the tins and the back panel. I could NOT get the nose cone in because of A.) the headlight circle nacelle hits the front tins where it needs to be cut out for the headlight, and B.) the spots are too close and will have to be moved either forward, outward (ugh), or both. A special bracket will have to be made for the odd hole locations, but that actually may be last, since all other considerations will have to take precedence.
Once I have it where it needs to be, plastics cut out wherever, and have a really good mockup, I can then consider mounting options.
I feel like four leg bolts are not enough to steady this much weight, and that's without the gauges or cb radio I'll put in.
Ya never know; I may go nutz and move the spots to the freakin' AXLE or something, and replace the turn bubbles with some other units like bullets. Or strobe lights.

 

Woody's fairing are pretty high-quality.. Still waiting on mine at the painter..

 

 

I'm curious: what is the height from the top of your bar clamp to the top of the "dashboard" on that Batwing?

I have a campout to attend the 8th, so I'd better be putting the bike back together and getting the trailer and gear ready; start back on the project when I get home the week after.
Wish I could find some cheap enough 3-3/8" tach and speedo...all Fleabay has is the knockoff 2" stuff, and I gotta fill those big holes, even if the speedo isn't needed. I'll run
oil pressure in one of the small holes and maybe an ammeter in the other: I have over 17 lights on the bike, handlebar heaters and heated gloves.

I'm thinking to cut the lower holes out for the bars and cut some circle inserts from a tinted shield, with smaller holes for the bars cut into them, to fill the space up. I hate being
the guinea pig again, but it's also fun fabricating. At risk is the donated fairing.